travel

Big Island, Hawaii - trip notes

We booked a trip to the Big Island with the plan to learn more about a new part of Hawaii while getting some surfing in. This post captures what I did, what I’d do differently, and the notes I’ll want next time. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll keep it brief.

Sat, May 9 - Seattle to Kona

  • Dropped off the car at Park N Jet at 12:30pm. For nine days, it cost us $102, a steal compared to taking a cab/rideshare. The shuttle to the airport is only 5 minutes, extremely reliable, and the staff is really nice.

  • Had airport lunch at Seattle Beer Union, a decent enough option. Leah thought the salmon burger was worth getting again. Afterward got a drink at Caffé D’arte. For something you’d find at an airport, their espresso drinks are notably good.

  • Our six hour flight left at 2:30pm, direct to KOA with Delta. Don’t expect wifi for most of the flight.

  • We booked a Turo rental car and the pickup was a 12min drive away. We got into a taxi dispatch line and the driver told us that the flat rate minimum was $46, and also cash only. We promptly got out and got an Uber for $16. I’ll mention that Lyft and Uber’s pricing was fluctuating wildly: $15 first, then $26, then finally $16, all within the span of four minutes.

  • I would’ve liked to load up on groceries at Costco but it closed at 7pm and we wouldn’t make it in time. I also would’ve liked to get a sandwich at Da Whip or poke for dinner at Sack N Save, but it was too late in the day. We settled for Ikkyu Ramen, priced relatively normally.

  • Went next door to Safeway to do most of our grocery shopping for the week, conveniently open all day and night. For some items (but not all), there’s a huge sticker shock (e.g., a bagged salad being over 2x what I’d pay in Seattle).

  • We drove over to Captain Cook where we’d be spending the week at an Airbnb. It has a treehouse in the jungle vibe. I’d definitely recommend.

Sun, May 10 - Pololū Valley Lookout

  • We both woke up to the sound of a rooster two hours before sunrise. On top of the earplugs I already had in, I threw on some noise cancelling headphones and got more sleep. This would be essential for the rest of the week.

  • We started the day at the Kona Farmers Market, both of us surprised by how few stalls there were. We grabbed a bag of lychee, mangosteen, and some whole and pre-sliced mangoes to snack on by the shore. While it was a nice experience to get our fingers sticky with fruit while listening to the waves at Hale Halawai Park, if you’re coming to the farmers market, set your expectations very low. Parking is paid ($11/hr when we went). Having a packet of wet wipes with you is a pro move.

  • We did the 90min drive to Halaula on the northern coast, taking the longer route along Hawai’i Belt Road. It was definitely worth it given how scenic it was: panoramic views of the rugged coastline from above, unexpected sightings of cattle on golden-green fields.

  • We had lunch at Gill’s Lanai, both of us getting the grilled fish sandwich. Although a bit pricey ($25 a sandwich), it’s local catch and damn was it good. Staff is super friendly and the open seating area is really pleasant. This ended up being my favorite meal of the trip.

  • We got some ice cream afterward from Our Founding Farmers. Without having to ask, they’ll give you a sampling of all of their top flavors made locally: gingersnap, lilikoi (passion fruit), matcha w/ honey, mango, etc. The crew is really friendly and they’ll likely ask you what the big flavor is where you’re visiting from. I got the lilikoi and was really happy with it. A small cup (w/ generous scoops) was $7.

  • We took a walk along the main street in town, stopping in at an artisan wood bowl gallery shop. All of the pieces were unique and fun to admire. We didn’t buy anything, but I’d happily go back to stare at some of them again.

  • We were a short drive from the Pololū Valley Lookout. There’ll likely be some staff and volunteers there to check that you’ve got water before you descend the ~500ft trail. If you’ve ever hiked, this will be no problem at all. Ideally don’t do it in sandals since parts of the trail get buffed and slippery from all the foot traffic. Nearly all the accidents happen on the first 10 feet. The other accidents happen from drowning victims. There will be a counter showing “days since last accident” and you might get an interesting story if you ask.

  • King Kamehameha I, the first ruler of Hawaii, was born near here and almost certainly had hiked this trail. At the bottom is a black sand beach and a spectacular view of the lush valley. There’s also an old burial ground that was disturbed by a 1946 tsunami. If you go at the right time you might even see a thousand Portuguese man o' wars washed ashore. Be respectful of the land, don’t cross into private property, and don’t duck the rope gate to stomp around the burial grounds.

  • We drove back along the coast, hoping to stop at Lapakahi State Historical Park. It’s the site of a partially restored ancient fishing village. Unfortunately, it closed at 4pm and we were too late.

  • We stopped by Costco to load up on groceries for the week. We didn’t stop to eat but I realized that the food court is an extremely good deal here. $1.50 for the hot dog is a great deal on the mainland, but insanely good on the island.

Mon, May 11 - Snorkeling at Two Step

  • We passed the morning working remotely, leaving the house a little after lunch. We drove to Honaunau Bay, one of the two top snorkeling spots on the Big Island. You might see it referred to as Two Step Beach. There’s a private parking lot right at the beach with a $5 fee to drop into a cash box. If you don’t have change, there’s an old guy in a scooter to solve that problem. The porta-potties are fairly clean. Don’t expect a shower or a place to rinse off though.

  • Bring some kind of chair to sit on the lava rock and settle in. Find a good place to drop in with your fins and snorkel mask. Watch your step to avoid stepping on a sea urchin accidentally. Use reef-safe sunscreen. We saw about 30 spinner dolphins moving in a pack fairly close to where snorkelers were gathered. One of them even jumped several times to do a series of aerial corkscrews. The law requires you to stay 50 yards away from them, even if they swim towards you. While in the water, we even caught sight of a solitary spotted eagle ray.

  • We were so close to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park that we stopped by right after. Although we had a NPS pass, nobody was checking at 4pm. I do wish we’d come earlier as there’s a ton of history to absorb. There’s apparently a free NPS audio tour too. Although we didn’t go deep into the appreciation of the space, it was a great place to visit and we hoped to come back. It’s a sacred place, so be respectful. Cleaning yourself off in the restrooms after snorkeling is discouraged. You’re also asked to cover up if you’re in swimsuit attire.

  • On the drive back home, we stopped by Breadbasket, a farm stand with some baked goods. If you’re looking for gluten-free treats, you’ll be satisfied here. Even if you’re not GF, these were pretty great. We got a chilled chocolate chip cookie sandwich for $5. On the way back, I pulled over to look at the Slippah Pole, a telephone pole with a bunch of old flip flops nailed to it.

Tues, May 12 - Walking the Kona coast

  • We had a quiet day today, mostly working remotely. Our first stop was to Manini beach. Parking is very limited here. There’s a super friendly caretaker, Sandy, who will warmly greet you, asking that you read the big sign before you entire. The space feels like a secret: a serene open meadow with palm trees marking the boundary of the jagged, black lava rock coastline. If you keep walking further, you’ll find some fascinating tide pools. Leah and I spotted an eel ripping a crab apart, which was fascinating to watch. It’s entirely free and guaranteed not to be crowded given the limited parking spots.

  • We drove over to check out Hokuli’a Shoreline Park. To enter, you have to the new private Hōkūliʻa luxury residential community (homes in the $10m range). The guard will check your driver’s license and count the number of people in your car. Just say you’re here to walk the coastline. Also, don’t bring a pet with you or you’ll be turned back. Drive all the way down and you’ll find a parking lot. There’s a good chance you’ll be the only one there. The cliffs are fun to walk and lay down on. You’re expected to leave 15 minutes after sunset.

  • We finished up by getting a treat at Gypsea Gelato. I won’t say that the quality of gelato is very great, some flavors were done very poorly. I do think I nailed it with my choice of the Kona coffee and the toasted coconut (which was made similar to a stracciatella w/ shards of chocolate drizzle) and. Priced normally, I’d come back if I was in the area.

Wed, May 13 - Snorkel and South Point

  • We started our day at Manini beach again, hoping to snorkel the one mile trip each way from there to Captain James Cook Monument. The best snorkeling of the island is apparently near the monument, but getting there requires a bit of thought. You have a few options.

  • You can hike the steep trail up and down, hopefully after a local has cut the tall grass that obscures the path. Do this very early in the day and carry 2 liters of water.

  • You can hire a tour guide to take you via kayak, most importantly hiring them to hold your kayak while you snorkel.

  • Or you could do what we did: park at Manini beach and snorkel across the bay. This ended up being a bad idea. We made it over a third of the way in 25 minutes, even getting through the completely blind section where silty water obscures all visibility. We held hands and just kept snorkeling through during this section. Earlier, I made things more safer (but longer) by suggesting we not take the direct path because I didn’t like being so far from the shore. We turned back and found the snorkeling just off Manini beach to be pleasant enough. A local later told us that he’s only done the snorkel to Captain Cook from Manini once in his life and he’ll never do it again.

  • We then went to the Paleaku Gardens Peace Sanctuary, a beautiful space on a hillside overlooking the ocean. For $12 per adult, it’s one of the best value ways to spend your time. The garden is impressive and there’s lots of interesting monuments to peace from different religions across the world. We found the entire experience very relaxing and we could have spent all day there watching heaps of butterflies blowing in the wind.

  • We grabbed a smoothie from The South Kona Fruit Stand. The older woman at the shop was so welcoming and friendly. We also grabbed a fantastic pineapple carrot cake from the fridge. I was astounded by the prices. This was the only place where I thought they were undercharging us.

  • We made the one hour drive to South Point Park. This was the southernmost point of the US and where strong winds bent the sparse trees and created waves on the tall grass. It all ends on some steep cliffs where, if you’re lucky, you’ll find someone jumping off. Mostly you’ll find local fishermen with long rods waiting to catch something to grill. The waves are impressive to see as well. We didn’t have time to make it to the Papakōlea Green Sand Beach which was nearby.

  • I opted not to make dinner from Costco tonight and instead had a burrito at Mi Lindo Michoacán. I wouldn’t recommend it, but it was fine if you’re in a hurry. I made a note to cook at home for the next few days.

Thur, May 14 - Kahalu'u Bay surfing and Cloud Forest yoga

  • I had a 9am private surf lesson booked with Kahalu'u Bay Surf and Sea. The waves were pretty mellow at 1-2 feet but I had plenty of fun. I was on a giant foam board so it wasn’t hard to catch and ride waves. If you’ve got surf booties, I’d recommend bringing them. The actual time in the water was 1hr20min for the 2hr lesson. Apparently, it’s better on this break to catch the waves during low tide as it helps the waves stand taller. They’ve got a shower to rinse off. We always had no problem parking on the street here for free.

  • After having lunch at home, we headed out to the Kona Cloud Forest Sanctuary. It’s Hawaii’s only cloud forest, an area characterized by persistent-low level cloud cover. There are some unique plants that grow here and it’s a cool experience to see how quickly the environment changes as you drive up from sea level to over 3,000ft. Rather than book the pricey guided tour, we did a yoga session for $25 a person. It was tourist yoga: gentle and relaxing. I’d highly recommend it given the scenery.

  • I would’ve liked to do the nearby 3.8mi loop hike on the Makaula 'O'oma Trail. It seemed like a way to forest bathe at this elevation without having to pay for a guided tour at the Cloud Forest Sanctuary. We were hungry though, so we went back down to get early dinner at Da Whip Sandos. They make some creative, quality sandwiches. Really friendly. The best one seems to be the Richard Pickle, which is their take on a cubano.

Fri, May 15 - Snorkel Two Step again

  • We did another pre-lunch snorkel at Honaunau Bay (Two Step). I am going to assume that it gets the name because the best entrance into the water is from the two big natural steps that you can take near the orange cone. It’s where you’ll see everyone entering in and exiting from. The only downside is that there can be a bit of a traffic jam at that spot from folks awkwardly making the transition. You can definitely enter/exit from other spots, but depending on the tide it may be slippery or you might expose yourself to stepping on sea urchins embedded in the lava rock. We explored both the far left and far right side of the bay, and I personally found the most interesting snorkeling to be near that entrance zone. That area is shallow enough that the sunlight adds great visibility, there are enough terrain features to make it feel interesting, but you won’t get much solitude.

  • It was a hot afternoon, so we stayed indoors for the afternoon. Just before sunset we took out books and went to Manini beach again. This is one of my favorite spots from the trip. Sandy was there again to greet us with an aloha and we walked down the path to the multi-colored chairs overlooking the ocean. A very old guy, Ron, came by and sat next to us and we chatted with him for a while. He’s been living in the area for decades and was responsible for the chairs we were sitting on. He also planted the nearby baby palm trees 14 years ago. He suggested we at some point make our way to Ke’Ei beach, which was visible just to our south. He noted that it was either a 20min walk or a 20min drive, implying that the road was fairly rough for cars. It’s apparently like “what Hawaii looked like 100 years ago” according to him, and is primarily frequented by locals.

Sat, May 16 - Kahalu'u Bay surfing and Manta ray night snorkel


  • We went to Kahalu'u Bay Surf and Sea again, this time without an instructor. The waves were 2-4 feet and I grabbed the Modern 9’2” board. We caught some good waves, but the wind was making it harder to read conditions. Also, there were a lot of people out so it got frustrating at times. Still, I had a good time and we spent 3hrs out on the water before riding a wave back to shore.

  • After rinsing off we went to Homegrown Cone, an ice cream shop that blends frozen fruit grown on the island with a soft serve base. I was really happy with the papaya and calamansi combo. It’s overpriced but don’t think too hard about it. For parking, we’ve had luck on this street and then walking from there. If you want a shaded place to sit while eating, we found the bench outside Ka’ū Coffee Roasters next door to be a nice spot. They didn’t ask us to order anything, but I got a cortado after finishing up my ice cream and it was excellent. There are also free, pour-yourself samples of their different beans.

  • After hiding from the heat indoors, we set off and arrived to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel resort at 5:45pm, parked with the valet (free in the evening), and explored the grounds. They have a very liberal policy for wandering around wherever you want and I was surprised by how chill the staff was. This was not the case when we’d wander into resorts in Mexico. Likely this culture stems from laws that designate all beaches in Hawaii are publicly owned up to the highest wash of the waves.

  • We got the pro-tip from staff that we should order takeout from Copper Bar, and then eat it right in front of the restaurant at the nice tables overlooking the beach and sunset. It was a brilliant idea: no wait for a table, a better view, and more privacy. We both ordered the burgers. It was okay and cost more than I would’ve liked to pay, but I didn’t let that kill the vibe. Note that the ice cream on the dessert menu is an extremely generous portion.

  • After sunset, we made our way to Manta Ray Point, a viewing platform right in front of the resort’s fancy restaurant, Manta. After dark, they turn on these bright lights that attract plankton. The gathering of the plankton in turn attracts the manta rays, which you can view from above. You don’t need to be a guest or a diner.

  • We had a reservation booked with the Manta Ray Advocates. My understanding is that there are three areas, all on the western side of the island, where manta ray viewing occurs. This was the northernmost one, and the only one where you snorkel a short distance (two minutes at most) to view them. The other sites frequented by tour groups have you take a boat or kayak out to view them, and you’re going to be in a group of 12-48 people, sharing the space with other tour groups of varying sizes. All of the tours are priced similarly. Some have an upcharge if you want to guarantee a sighting (i.e., you can book another day if no manta rays show up). Manta Ray Advocates was pricier, but I figured the premium was worth it for a smaller group (maximum of six).

    • We started with a safety briefing and in the middle of it, there was a surprise 15min spectacular fireworks show for the jazz festival happening at the resort. It was incredibly delightful and I was glad we weren’t yet in the water for that.

    • The guides are all super friendly and knowledgable. You will be required to wear a life vest, regardless of your experience level. I opted to also wear my wetsuit top and I’m happy I did although I would’ve been fine without it. After you get out of the water, it’s chilly night air you’re walking around in. You’ll notice the guides all have full wetsuits on.

    • You’ll typically see 1-4 manta rays, although they’ve seen 9 at once before. We were in a group of four people total. We saw two manta rays and it was an unbelievable experience. They get very close to you and they are enormous. I could not recommend it more. We paid the $20 to get the video clips the guide took and are happy about that.

    • You’ll spend 30-40 min in the water and after you get out, there are plenty of outdoor showers. There’s even a hot tub and pool you can get into and there’s no one to stop you.

  • I’m glad I did a guided tour, since that helped me learn about manta rays and how to behave so I don’t disturb them. I did wonder though whether I’d book with them again or if I would just buy my own bright light and snorkel out. Something to think about.

Sun, May 17 - Kahalu'u Bay surfing and Umeke’s

  • For my final day on the island, we started off at Kahalu'u Bay Surf and Sea. I had a lesson with Eli, who I would highly recommend if you’re actually interested in learning how to surf (rather than getting pushed into the waves). If you can, get out as early as possible in the day. Today, the waves were steep, 3-4 feet, and consistent. I grabbed the Modern 9’2” board and hoped I wouldn’t regret it. Fortunately there were fewer people out today and I had an absolute blast. I dropped in on the steepest wave of my life and had some phenomenal rides by learning to compress.

  • We celebrated a great session by going to Homegrown Cone again. We later got lunch at a solid Korean spot, Snow Island. Get the spicy pork.

  • Before flying out, we had dinner at Umeke’s. Avoid a wait for a table by sitting at the bar. You’ll see more locals hanging out at the bar too. We got the poke and the grilled catch of the day. Absolutely fantastic meals and they could get away with serving this at fine dining given how quality this was. It ain’t cheap, but for what quality they’re serving you, you’re getting a great value.

Tips/thoughts for next time

  • It gets hot in the afternoon. Plan to wake up early and get your activities done.

  • We did not snorkel at Captain Cook, and from what I’ve heard it’s marginally better than Two Step but requires a whole lot more effort. I’d like to go someday but I could also see myself sticking to Manini beach and Two step exclusively.

  • I wish we had time to check out out Makalawena Beach just north of the airport. It’s a long white sand beach that you have to do a 1 mile sun-expose walk to get to. You’ll have a lot of solitude there. Park near Kekaha Kai State Beach if you do it.

  • We didn’t at all go to the Hilo side (i.e., the eastern side of the island). It would have been a long day trip since we had lodging on the Kona side (i.e., the western side of the island). Someone told us that there’s 10x more annual rain on that side, so it’s a lot more lush and there are many waterfalls to check out.

Tokyo and Hokkaido 2025 - trip notes

I made a solo trip out to Japan in January 2025 with my skis. I was primarily in Tokyo, but spent a few days in Hokkaido with Luke. This post captures what I did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Thur, Jan 16 - Land in Tokyo

  • At 3:20pm, I land in Haneda after a direct flight from Seattle where I chased the sun. I watched this video of navigating my first hour in Japan and it was really helpful once I landed.

  • After getting cash and an unlimited wifi box w/ insurance, I dropped my skis off at Yamato Transport. I’d be shipping them to Rusutsu Grand Cabin in Hokkaido. It would have been a nightmare to take my skis onto public transit. The paperwork to fill out is complicated, but they’ll do it for you. Just be sure to have that info ready beforehand.

    • Note that you can’t ship your skis to any lodging that doesn’t have a front desk staff (e.g., a home/apartment). If this is the case for you, maybe just ship it to the airport.

  • Beforehand I had set up a Pasmo card (Tokyo’s transit card) onto my phone’s Apple Pay, so I loaded up some money (usually 500 yen at a time) easily. Pasmo can also be used to pay for items in convenience stores and elsewhere, so don’t stress about loading slightly more than you would use.

  • I take the 5:35pm train directly to Asakusa, and an hour later I check in to Plat Hostel Keikyu Asakusa. I wouldn’t recommend it. It was a single room on the first floor, and there was a dank standing water smell from the shower drain. My friend later told me this is common for Asian countries on the ground floor.

  • I met up with Wayne (visiting from Taiwan) for ramen at Homemade Noodles Billiken. I reacquainted myself with the vending machine ordering system (push some buttons, pay, get a ticket, present ticket and grab a seat). They make duck ramen, which I haven’t had before. Probably the most fragrant ramen I’ve ever had.

    • Having google translate camera view helped with navigating the menu. Most importantly, knowing exactly what I wanted before I showed up helped tremendously and I’d end up using the ten minutes before arriving anywhere to get my order down.

  • I went to bed at 9:30pm and set my alarm for 2am to dial into a work meeting.

Fri, Jan 17 - Dense day in Tokyo

  • I knew I’d be super tired today. I woke up at 2am, had meetings for two hours, and then slept until 7am. I had a 7-Eleven egg sandwich, fried chicken, and a caffe latte to wake me up.

  • I crammed myself during rush hour onto a train and bus to make my way to teamLab Planets for a 9am reservation I booked two months in advance.

  • I’m glad I booked the reservation as early as I did, which helped disperse crowds more effectively. The only other tip I’d give is that when they’re sharing the briefing video in groups, if you’re not in the first group to pass through, slip through the curtain and proceed to the exhibits (i.e., don’t watch the video). Secondly, don’t head straight to the water exhibits (through the locker room) unless you’re fast at changing into being barefoot with shorts. It may seem like a trivial thing, but these exhibits really shine when you can have a sense of solitude. I opted to do all the other exhibits first before heading to the water exhibit since 98% of the crowd goes there first. I don’t think I would spend more than 90 minutes here. The only final tip I’d give is that wearing something white may help you stand out to get crisper photos in the dark and colorful environment.

  • I walked around and ultimately took the train to Tonpei, a small katsu spot. Despite arriving at opening, I managed to get the last of the five or so seats in the intimate space. It was incredible. I was the only person who broke the cold silence in the room by saying Oishii! (delicious) to the chef, who seemed really grateful. For the whole hour, no one else said a word.

  • I made my way to the beautiful Kane-ji temple by Ueno Park, using GPT to learn some fun facts that seemed true. After a short walk on the grounds, I spent the afternoon walking around Ueno Park, specifically to admire the art in the Tokyo National Museum. I loved the collection and wished I had more time. There are several other museums nearby but I didn’t have time for them. In the park, there was an oden festival. I was too full to enjoy this hotpot winter comfort dish but it smelled incredible to walk through.

  • I got a 5pm haircut scheduled in advance at Hiro Ginza, partially out of curiosity and because it was half the price of getting it at home. My friendly barber spoke no English but the apps were sufficient to bridge the barrier. He asked if I wanted a Japanese style cut and I regrettably said no. I was happy with the experience though!

  • The day was finally winding down. Wayne came back from skiing locally and we lined up for 6pm dinner at Men Mitsui, recommended on the Michelin guide and arguably deserving of star.

    • I had second thoughts upon seeing 15 people lined up ahead of us. The line is misleading and unnecessary; all you need to do is go to the tablet and put your party size down, and retrieve a printed ticket. They’ll come out periodically to call out the next number in line. Do not make the mistake of first waiting in line if you see a tablet. You can stand wherever you want after getting a ticket.

    • The broth on the shoyu ramen was so light and complex, the noodles so bouncy and chewy. What really blew us away was the chashu. It was genius level. Wayne was speechless, which is hard to believe if you know him. The only other option you can add is a side of a katsudon, which the chef has a unique take on. I’d suggest it.

    • There’s a cool vibe here, jazz music playing, the chef flowing like an artist.

  • We then went to a standup comedy show (in English) hosted by Meshida. It served as a bit of a social mixer to chat with expats from around the world. Meshida had a great set on Japanese culture, sex, life, and history. His opener was so bad it was great.

  • I was beyond tired, but Wayne and I stopped at a cocktail bar to chat one last time before he set off. Fortunately, it was the weekend so I wouldn’t have to wake up early for work and I got home at 11pm.

Sat, Jan 18 - Playing tourist, eating well

  • Breakfast in Japan is best done at a konbini, and I think Family Mart is a level better than 7-Eleven. Their spicy famichiki (fried chicken) is far less greasy too. I’d also recommend their melonpan, delicious.

  • I did the touristy thing of starting my day at the Samurai Ninja Museum to live out my 10-year old self dreams. It took a while to get over feeling self-conscious dressing up, but then I was having fun with it. The guide had us play some ninja games (e.g., blow darts, throwing shurikens, foam sword fighting, etc) and four guys my age from Hong Kong folded me into their friend group and I had a blast.

  • For lunch, I went to sushi468, far from tourist traffic. The chef does bo-zushi from the Kansai region, a traditional style known for it’s rectangle/cylinder shape made w/ a wooden mold. Unlike Edo-style, focused on fresh fish, this style is about lightly cured fish that’s preserved (which is what was done before refrigeration. I still prefer Edo-style, but I wanted to try something different. There’s more depth of flavor for each bite. Even though there was only one other person in the restaurant at opening, he told the third person that he was fully booked despite there being five empty seats. If you go, be sure to try the imo sui (potato soup). Slippery with a ball of edamame and potato. Super satisfying on a chilly day.

  • I tried to check out the Senso-Ji temple and within seconds realized it was a mistake to try to work within the crowds. I stopped in for a warm tea and a very good taiyaki snack at Asakusa Naniwaya.

  • Uniqlo was nearby, and I did some shopping for cheap items that’d keep me warm on my long walks. I later found the west entrance to Senso-ji, which had 95% fewer people and I wandered the grounds.

  • I needed to work up an appetite, so I walked through Sumida Park over to the Tokyo Skytree. Two weeks ago I booked a 4pm reservation. I’d been here once before for sunset on New Year’s Eve and wanted to see the view again from above. Just note that it takes a lot longer than you’d think to get up to the top and also to leave the building.

  • I returned to my hostel in Asakusa to pick up my luggage. I would be transferring to another hostel closer to the airport. At 6pm, I checked into Plat Hostel Keikyu Haneda Home. Another single room, although much nicer. Would recommend. I’d have an easy trip to the airport in the morning.

  • There wasn’t much to do in the area besides ramen nearby for dinner at Sato. I was seated alongside a few students quietly slurping down bowls of chukasoba (“Chinese-style noodles”), basically a light soy-based broth and simple toppings. It had more of a clean and simple flavor, nostalgic of early Japanese ramen. Meals like this helped me appreciate the broad range of ramen out there today.

Sun, Jan 19 - Arrival to Hokkaido

  • I had an easy train ride into Haneda, and was sure to grab some flight snacks. My favorites from the trip were the Tough Gummy. Please try it!

  • For my flight to Hokkaido, I had a view of the mountains from my window seat on the left side. If you can choose your seat, that’s what I’d recommend.

  • I landed in New Chitose Airport, which has the most incredible food court I’ve been. My first stop was to 57 Ban Sushi. Save this spot now. There’ll be a long line, but I had time since I was waiting for Luke’s flight to arrive. While you wait, there’s a fresh selection of incredible seafood to stare at. I waited 40 minutes and Luke arrived just in time.

    • We ordered from a tablet and it was all standing sushi counter dining. The translations on the menu options can be strange, but just note that you are only allowed to order a few pieces at a time. Everything was great to incredible. Getting a meal of this quality would be $300 at least when you factor in a tip. I paid only $90. Don’t bother trying the rare keiji sushi, which costs $25 a piece. It was light and airy, but super chewy.

  • We finished up our meal at one of the many Hokkaido soft serve shops before boarding a pre-booked bus that we booked in advance to take us to our lodging.

  • We’d be staying at the Rusutsu Grand Cabin, which I booked via Airbnb. Unfortunately, our bus would only take us to Rusutsu resort, and we’d then need to get a 7min shuttle to our cabin. We’d be splitting a small room with two beds, leaving little room to prep our gear. Fortunately, my skis had arrived! There was a restaurant downstairs that did yakiniku, and while it was great, we were convinced we didn’t want to eat so much meat again.

Mon, Jan 20 - Skiing Rusutsu Resort

  • For our first day we headed over to Rusutsu Resort for some warmup laps. Snow conditions were great, but nothing like the epic powder you see on the Internet. I wanted to avoid Niseko given how many people went there and Rusutsu seemed like a promising alternative. On the lift line, we met up with two other Americans, Dan and Van. We’d meet up with them later. We had zero lines, quiet and beautiful tree runs. Lunch was awesome and definitely more interesting than meals I’ve had at American resorts. I’d happily come back to Rusutsu.

  • Our lodging had a wood-burning tent sauna that we booked in advance, which was fun. Our new friends Dan and Van picked us up for dinner and we drove to the nearby Kimobetsu.

  • The few restaurants in the village said they were fully booked. I get it. They want to keep it locals only; I respect that. We desperately ended up at a surfer-style dive bar izakaya called You Tei. I was skeptical, but the shabu shabu was decent enough.

  • After dinner, Luke and I stopped by a Lawson (another konbini) for breakfast and trail snacks for tomorrow. Our plan would be to try and summit Yotei and ski down into the crater. The avalanche forecast was good, gear checks were clean, and we’d get only five hours of sleep before the biggest ski tour of my life. Fortunately, I decided not to work remotely during the skiing days.

Tues, Jan 21 - Ski touring Yotei

  • We woke up super early. I grabbed a coffee from the cabin’s vending machine and it went well with the Lawson choco-pie. Luke booked us a taxi with the help of the cabin staff to drop us off a the trailhead for the Makkari route on Yotei.

  • We weren’t the only ones at the trailhead at sunrise, but we definitely were the only ones who had a taxi drop us off. The challenge would be arranging a pick-up. We were in a rural area, so coming out here was a pricey ask. The driver looked uneasy when I flashed a translated message asking if he could pick us up at 4pm, but if he couldn’t we could take the bus. He looked uneasy and said we should call him. This would be impossible, since we had no signal. The bus would take over two hours, whereas a cab would be 20min.

  • Unfortunately, I brought my heavy 117 powder skis with shift bindings instead of my lightweight volcano skis. This was going to be a slog. Although we didn’t have powder, we had great conditions for skinning up and avalanche concerns were distant.

  • It took us five hours exactly to reach the crater rim, which is on the lower end of how long it takes most people. We stripped the skins and had our glorious descent into the crater. Luke noted how surreal it was to see the walls get higher on all sides as you ski further down.

  • We had lunch in the crater, watching others draw fresh lines into the crater walls. After a short skin back up to the rim, we began the long descent. It wasn’t ideal conditions, but it was a joy. The heavy skis were the wrong move, but I made it work. My legs were hot jello by 3pm when we made it back to the parking lot.

  • We hoped to find someone who we could hitch a ride with, but nobody was headed in that direction. We made our way to the bus stop ten minutes before it would arrive. Fortunately, we didn’t wait long. Our taxi driver showed up! I’m glad we didn’t end up hitchhiking because he would’ve made the drive for no reason. In total it was 5,600ft of ascent over 7.5miles. We were beyond ecstatic.

  • Another guy from the cabin joined us for dinner. We had a second tour of rejection in the village of Kimobetsu. One of the izakaya owners even said he solely does takeout when he saw us. We celebrated our big day by eating microwaved meals by the trash bin at 7-Eleven for over an hour. I went for seconds.

Wed, Jan 22 - Onsen and buffet day

  • Walked over to Lawson for a breakfast of onigiri. I’m surprised that anyone even sells onigiri without the seaweed separately plastic wrapped from the rice (i.e., with the intricate instructions for opening).

  • We were beat from the day before, so we opted to just hang out at the Rusutsu onsen. We took a late shuttle over to the lodge and were surprised to see that the onsen wouldn’t open up until 2pm. Luke was pretty annoyed since it meant four hours of doing nothing. Our skis were back at the cabin, so we just had a long lunch of udon noodles and sake.

  • Finally, the onsen opened and we were joined by Dan and Van. There was an awesome view in the outdoor heated pool, with snowflakes falling down on us. It was a great reset to have three hours of switching between hot and cold.

  • For dinner we indulged in the all you can eat buffet at the resort. The options were excellent and I’d suggest if you are hungry and in the area. Get there before they open.

Thur, Jan 23 - Flight to Tokyo

  • We arranged for a private shuttle to pick us up at 6:30am for our flights out of New Chitose. In 90 minutes we were back at the airport. I arranged for Yamato transport to deliver my skis to Haneda airport for pickup a week later. The cost was only $30.

  • We grabbed some ramen at Ichigen Ebisoba. They low-simmer Hokkaido shrimp heads for hours. I wasn’t a fan of the broth, but I found myself craving it later. We had some soft serve and said goodbye, taking a peek at Yotei one last time from the airplane window.

  • I was back in Tokyo now alone, this time staying at Unplan Shinjuku in a private room. This hostel was a lot nicer and makes a real effort to have its guests socialize. I had a tight agenda so I didn’t partake.

  • Shinjuku is a lot more nightlife-forward than where I was previously. It wasn’t relevant to me, since I went out for dinner at 5pm so I could go to bed early. I was first in line at Pretty Pork Factory, and even still they were hesitant about whether they could seat me. I had a quick meal of some 14-day aged tonkatsu loin with a deep, nutty flavor.

  • I set my alarm for 1am. I’d be working remotely again.

Fri, Jan 24 - Fish market tour

  • I woke up at 1am and immediately dialed into a meeting. Between calls, I stepped out to 7-Eleven to grab some hot breakfast.

  • After work settled, I got into a cab at 4:30am and left for Toyosu fish market, the largest in the world. There are seven categories of seafood auctioned off daily, but the big draw is the fresh tuna auction. It’s rare to win the visitor lottery to be on the floor, but the viewing gallery above is free.

    • I signed up for a 5am group tour with Toshi-san. He’s well known in the market and runs his own sushi shop. He mentioned the best tuna (bluefin) comes from the Tsugaru Strait between Honshu (big island) and Hokkaido in December. The second best is New England in October.

    • Fish from all over the world is sold here and you can get the best prices as a fisherman. Sometimes a fish will be caught in Cape Cod, air cargo’d to Tokyo, sold at Toyosu, and then air cargo’d back to a Michelin restaurant in California.

    • Toshi took us to the balcony of the market for sunrise and presented live hairy crabs and lobsters he had been carrying around. He walked us through the rest of the market, pointing out wasabi, famous knife shops, and then the old Tsukiji outer market grounds.

    • We finished the tour at his sushi restaurant, which he’s had for 17 years. I’m glad he told us to come hungry because he fed an overwhelming amount of incredible seafood. Although it was pricey, I’d suggest the tour over a Michelin restaurant. You’ll think about it for longer, I guarantee it. I made friends with some of the others in the group, and one of them was a sushi chef himself in Austin so Toshi had him cut some sushi for us!

  • I walked around the city aimlessly until I was hungry again and made my way to Ramen Matsui, just 15 minutes before they closed at 3pm. It’s a husband-and-wife team behind the counter and Michelin bib-g. The ramen had a super light, delicate taste of soy, salt, dried sardines and most uniquely they add a dash of pure rice sake to the dashi for an aroma. The noodles are thin, as are the wontons, the chef’s way of challenging the heaviness some associate with ramen.

  • I went to bed again at 5pm for another early wakeup. This time, not for work though.

Sat, Jan 25 - Rollercoasters and beef

  • I woke up for a few work calls, napped briefly, and then took a 6am cab to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal. I reserved a seat on a 6:45am bus to Fuji-Q Highland, one of Japan’s premier roller coaster parks. In less than two hours, I was at the park.

    • When I arrived, I booked priority passes for every half hour, so instead of waiting in lines, I was dizzily running around the park trying to find the next thrill I scheduled myself for.

    • It was much cheaper than what I would have paid in the US. Also, there was a cute practice of each ride having its own safety song and dance.

  • I got on the return bus to Tokyo. After arriving, I wandered through Golden Gai, an area of six narrow alleys and passageways. There were over 200 tiny shanty-style bars crammed into here, each with its own vibe. I spent New Years Eve here with friends years ago.

  • Dinner was at Genki Taisho Wagyu, which had great meats but I think I can only do a few bites of wagyu before I need to throw in the towel. It’s so rich. The novelty of it has also worn off given how available it is globally.

Sun, Jan 26 - teamLabs, Superb sushi, Sumo

  • Breakfast today was 7-Eleven fried chicken on a stick and melonpan (sweet, buttery bread shaped like a melon). As good as any chicken and waffles gets.

  • On my way to the other teamLab (Borderless) I was finally feeling savvy with the Tokyo subway system. I had a 9am booking that I made two months earlier.

    • The first few minutes felt like I had wasted money to take cool Instagram photos. Once I allowed myself to be carried away by the sounds and sights, it was as close to dream-like as real life can get.

    • As with teamLab Planets, the key is to go early and find pockets os space where you can be alone.

    • My favorite exhibit was the one where you can illustrate a sea creature on paper, have them scan it, and then watch it swim across the walls. I decided to get a printout of that drawing on a tshirt.

  • Afterward, I wandered around the Minato City area below Tokyo Tower. I had time before lunch and wish I had made a list of my favorite neighborhoods in my many miles of walking so far. Although it was far from being a grand attraction, I loved spending some quiet time at the Atago Jinja Shrine, set on a hilltop guarded by 86 steep, high-footed stone steps.

    • Note: there’s a proper way to enter the torii (gate). Pause, bow once, and enter on the left or right (the center is reserved for kami —spirits). When you leave, walk backwards a few steps before turning away. You’ll see others do this probably.

  • I walked over to lunch at Tachiguizushi Akira, hidden in a basement. There was a line of forty people 15 minutes before they opened. I had a reservation made about 7 weeks earlier and skipped ahead. The catch with the reservation was that I needed to spend a certain minimum. That wouldn’t be a problem.

    • I was presented with a menu before entering and asked to mark how many pieces I wanted. Thanks to my crash course in sushi a few days ago, I was very aware of what I wanted: chu-toru (medium fatty tuna) and uni (sea urchin) primarily. I also loved the ama ebi (sweet shrimp).

    • It’s all standing room only and there’s a more casual vibe here. It was one of the best (if not the best) sushi experience I’ve ever had. I got a big reaction from the chef when in Japanese I said “For one hour, I died and went to heaven.” He invited me to come back. For my next visit, I’d do at least two visits here.

  • For the second half of the day, I went to the sumo tournament. The tickets were hard to get, especially for the final 15th day. My ticket, purchased seven weeks earlier on Viator, was $110 and came with a guide.

    • Security at the Ryogoku Arena was unusually high, and I’d later learn that Prime Minister Shigeru Ishiba was arriving to present the trophy at the end. Using GPT was helpful to understand a lot of the pre-match rituals I was seeing.

    • The current Yokozuna, grand champion, retired in the middle of the tournament due to injuries. I had the great luck of being able to witness the rise of a new Yokozuna.

    • The entire experience was fantastic and I found myself getting really invested in certain wrestlers, learning their styles and backstory. For four hours of entertainment, it was a bargain. Also know that there really isn’t a bad seat in the area. I had 2nd Floor B-class Chair. I would absolutely do it again.

  • I capped off the day with a 6:30pm reservation at Sushi Kimura. I booked this two months in advance on TableCheck. There’s another high end Kimura sushi spot in Tokyo (different owner) that’s world-renowned for it’s aged sushi concept, but it’s priced far more than I’d be willing to pay.

    • Kimura was an exceptional meal and I was really happy with the choice to upgrade to a sake pairing. I even asked him for seconds. Takashima Omachi rice is one of Japan’s oldest and most revered strains for sake brewing. This super premium sake was by far the smoothest, most velvety sake I’ve ever tasted. It had a long peachy nectarine finish.

    • I frequently threw in the few Japanese phrases I memorized without hesitating: asking for more sake, dropping compliments (anata wa tensai desu = you are a genius), asking where certain fishes were from, and of course saying the Japanese name for each piece of sushi. The couple from Hong Kong next to me assumed I was an expat. They’d been visiting for years and never learned more than arigato.

    • Like a really cool guy, I said “agari” at the end to signal I was done. Chef Kimura gave me a subtle nod that signaled to me that I was a cool gaijin.

  • I was pretty giddy from the sake and the electricity of the tournament, so I walked around in the evening. Tokyo feels really safe and I can just shut my alertness off while listening to an audiobook.

Mon, Jan 27 - Morning jog, tempura, wandering, and gaming

  • To start the day, I took a cab to the Hanzōmon Gate. I’d be doing a 4mi loop run around the Imperial Palace, which has been the residence of the Emperor since 1868. It was a beautiful run and I stopped often for photos. Unfortunately, 80% of my pics from today were lost.

  • For lunch, I went to Tempura Kikage Yukimura, recommended as Michelin Bib-g. The chef is a savant when it comes to tempura. He also gave me a free piece and the staff bowed profusely in unison when I offered to sit at the counter to free up a table for two others in line.

    • The sauce he drizzles on the tempura uses the tsugi-tashi “perpetual sauce” method: whenever he’s low, he adds to it. He’s been doing that for 50 years, so there’s a deep and unique flavor that can’t be recreated.

  • I wandered into some high-end malls in Ginza to admire the view from the rooftops, bought my niece some Pokemon stuff, and had a snack at Tokyo’s oldest onigiri shop. I was a little bored today, I’ll admit.

  • I decided to check out the Red Tower Tokyo in the evening. It’s an immersive high-tech VR/AR park right under Tokyo Tower. I showed up at 7:30pm and had a blast. I would highly recommend you wear gym clothes or something you can be active in. You will work up a sweat. Some of the games are pretty physical. It’s more fun with another person, but I had a blast on my own too.

  • I found myself at one of the Afuri ramen locations. It’s a chain but I adore it, considering it a top three bowl on this trip. They add yuzu to the ramen which gives a super fragrant and light feel to it. I got their spicy tsukemen ramen which I loved. Will get warm noodles instead of cold noodles next time. The only photos from today are from the ramen shop.

Tues, Jan 28 - Taiyaki, park walk, bouldering

  • This would be my last full day in Tokyo. I was getting a bit homesick after nearly two weeks. The morning began at the semi-secluded shrine of Sanno Inari Shrine. It’s a nice place, but you’ll want to get there very early to minimize the number of tourists you see trying to do pull-ups on the gates.

  • I wandered the quiet neighborhood until I found Taiyaki Wakaba, which has been around since 1953. It’s considered a top three taiyaki spot in Tokyo. I’m not a big fan of red bean paste, but this was incredible. The batter was super light and crisp from the cast-iron mold.

  • I then headed to the Akasaka Palace (State Guest House). It’s inspired by Versailles and Buckingham Palace. It was kinda cool seeing the inside, but I wouldn’t highly recommend it. The Meiji Period has my least favorite Japanese art.

  • I went on a walk through Yoyogi Park, which I really liked. It felt more like I could wander aimlessly here. It was definitely my favorite.

  • I went to lunch at Pork Vindaloo Taberu Fuku-Daitoryo. In a small footprint with five seats, this guy makes pork vindaloo and that’s it. He serves forty people a day before he closes. It was more tangy and less spicy than I expected. I wouldn’t be in a rush to go back. It was kind of amusing though to hear the Japanese guy speak English with an Indian accent.

  • I decided to check out a local bouldering gym, Rocky Climbing. I grabbed some crappy rental shoes for my session. I did notice how slippery the rubber was, and after 20 minutes of climbing, my foot slipped and I overloaded my finger. It hurt so I called it a day.

  • I had a very early 4pm dinner at Menya Musashi, a chain known for its superb noodles and thick, gravy-like broth. I went for the tsukemen (dipping noodles). The heavy noodles were probably my favorite noodle.

Wed, Jan 29 - Last burst of fun in Tokyo

  • My flight back to Seattle was at 6:10pm, so I still had much of the day to explore. I made a last-minute decision to head to teamLabs Planets again for a 9am booking. A few days ago, they announced a new expansion to the exhibits, doubling their size. I had nothing else to do.

  • I had my final lunch at one of the few ramen shops in the world that has a Michelin star, Soba House Konjiki-Hototogisu. The broth really stood out here. It’s made with a triple soup base: tonkotsu for richness, clam for brininess, and dried fish/kelp for depth. They go a bit extra here and throw in black truffle oil for some luxurious aromatics.

  • At Haneda airport, the skis I shipped from Hokkaido were there waiting for me. Pickup took only 15 seconds. Wow.

  • My flight was delayed and I thanked the Delta agent because it meant I could fit one last meal. She found that hilarious. I settled on ramen one more time, at Rokurinsha’s airport stall. They’re one of Tokyo’s most famous tsukemen shops. Just like Menya Musashi, it’s a super-thick broth made from slow-cooking pork, chicken, seafood, and veggies.

Notes

I had an incredible two weeks in Japan. I got to see friends I hadn’t seen in a while, watch the sumo finals, enjoy some immersive museums, eat incredible ramen, ride some roller coasters, deepen my sushi appreciation, learn some new words, and so much more. Below are some tips.

  1. Reserve in advance when it matters.
    The best sushi counters and some standout restaurants require reservations made weeks in advance, often with a minimum spend. For me, that wasn’t a downside. I was already planning to eat well, and it let me skip long lines and lock in meals I still think about.

  2. There isn’t any one “best” ramen.
    Saying one ramen is the best doesn’t really make sense. There’s huge variation in broth, noodles, fat level, and toppings, and your own preference and mood matter just as much. One pattern I noticed is that Michelin-recognized ramen shops tend to favor very light, delicate bowls with balance over punch. If you want heavy, aggressive flavors, a no-name shop can be just as satisfying. Be highly skeptical of gimmicks, especially from influencers.

  3. Wagyu is overrated as a full meal.
    If I could cut one meal, it would be a dedicated wagyu dinner. A few bites are incredible, but it’s so rich that it stops being enjoyable fast. Share it, treat it like a tasting, and move on.

  4. Expect to lose weight without trying.
    Between walking 8–12 miles a day, smaller portions, and lighter food, I lost weight over two weeks without any effort. Granted, I did have an epic ski tour.

  5. Walk everywhere and wear truly comfortable shoes.
    Tokyo is a walking city even when you use transit constantly. Comfortable shoes matter more than style. You’ll be on your feet all day, often on hard surfaces, and you’ll enjoy the city more if you’re not thinking about your feet.

  6. Carry a small side bag.
    A crossbody or sling bag is perfect for phone, battery pack, hand cream, lip balm, tissues, and trash (there are almost no trash bins). Backpacks are fine but feel excessive in tight spaces, and pockets alone aren’t enough. I never wore one before this, but I loved my tomtoc and these mini carabiners were great for clipping bags onto it.

  7. Cold, wind, and dry air add up.
    Winter was cold and windy. Bring moisturizer, lip balm, and sunglasses. The sun can be intense on clear days, and dry air wrecks your skin fast. Buy these at any konbini.

  8. Learn some basic Japanese beforehand.
    Even a small amount goes a long way. YouTube was more useful than apps for me. Knowing how to order, say you’re done, give compliments, and ask simple questions made interactions warmer and more human.

  9. Decide what you want before you arrive.
    Many restaurants move fast, use vending machines or tablets, or don’t have English menus. Knowing exactly what you’re ordering before you walk in reduces stress and makes the experience smoother. I’d often spend ten minutes on Google Maps or Tabelog before arriving.

  10. If there’s an iPad, don’t stand in line.
    This sounds obvious after the fact, but if a restaurant has a tablet for sign-ups, use it immediately. Get your ticket and wait anywhere you want. Standing in a physical line first is usually unnecessary in these instances.

  11. Use Tabelog, not Google ratings.
    Anyone who has traveled to Japan knows this, but if it’s your first time, this is crucial to know: Tabelog ratings are more meaningful. A 3.5 is excellent. A 4.0 is elite. Google reviews skew generous and are less useful for food in Japan.

  12. Ship skis and luggage whenever possible.
    Using Yamato Transport was one of the best decisions of the trip. Public transit with skis or large bags would have been miserable. The paperwork looks intimidating, but staff will help if you have addresses ready.

  13. Build in rest days on physical trips.
    Ski touring, long walks, jet lag, and late nights stack up. The onsen day reset my body and probably saved the second half of the trip. Foot massages are plentiful and cheap too.

  14. Be flexible and accept rejection.
    Especially outside major cities, restaurants may turn you away even if they look empty. It’s not personal. Have backups, konbini food is excellent, and some of my most memorable meals were.