2025 video recap - 1 second everyday

I again recorded a second of video every day to make a compilation of my year. It’s one of my favorite ways to remember all the fun I had and how much my family and friends bring so much meaning to my life. In the long term, this compilation acts as a time capsule, preserving the perspective of my younger self. Here’s what 2025 looked like for me:

What I’ll remember about 2025

  • A lot of travel - I was out of town at least once a month this year, which led to some amazing experiences. So much time away from home also meant that I needed to make a better effort at keeping in touch with friends locally.

  • Hospital time with mom - My mom’s health declined this year in a big way, and there were many stressful hours of the day wondering if I might’ve had my last conversation with her.

  • A lot of boxing - I went boxing quite a lot for a workout. You don’t want these hands 🥊.

  • Climbing improvement - After the mid-year climb of Mt Goode and an intense day at the Gunks, I rekindled my stoke for climbing. I didn’t end up doing as many of the goals I set out to do, but I unlocked several grades of ability just by being less afraid to try harder.

  • Pushing the envelope on remote work - I flexed my hours to work remotely from Japan and the Dolomites this year. Sometimes I didn’t even mention I was away. Despite the awkward time zones, I’m still one of the high performers on my team.

  • Learning Italian - Although I started in late 2024, the bulk of my learning happened this year. There were three trips to Italy: cycling in Sardinia, mountain biking in the Dolomites, and exploring Bari with my father.

  • Eric as a friend - I spent a lot of time with a new buddy, Eric. He’ll never convince me to do a triathlon, but I’ll always agree to meet up for a sandwich and spin.

  • Acting class - I did two months of acting class and wish I had more time to make it a bigger part of my life.

What I’ll focus on in 2026

  • Improving my skills in Italian - I’ll continue the daily studying, turning up the intensity as long as it’s still fun. By the end of 2026, I should be at a C1 level.

  • Finding some balance in socializing - I want to figure out how to better manage my social circle. I’ve often met new people who I’d like to hang out with, but it’s been hard to balance that with existing friendships, personal activites, quality time with Leah, and travel. I may just have to accept that I’ll always feel behind.

Tokyo and Hokkaido 2025 - trip notes

I made a solo trip out to Japan in January 2025 with my skis. I was primarily in Tokyo, but spent a few days in Hokkaido with Luke. This post captures what I did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Thur, Jan 16 - Land in Tokyo

  • At 3:20pm, I land in Haneda after a direct flight from Seattle where I chased the sun. I watched this video of navigating my first hour in Japan and it was really helpful once I landed.

  • After getting cash and an unlimited wifi box w/ insurance, I dropped my skis off at Yamato Transport. I’d be shipping them to Rusutsu Grand Cabin in Hokkaido. It would have been a nightmare to take my skis onto public transit. The paperwork to fill out is complicated, but they’ll do it for you. Just be sure to have that info ready beforehand.

    • Note that you can’t ship your skis to any lodging that doesn’t have a front desk staff (e.g., a home/apartment). If this is the case for you, maybe just ship it to the airport.

  • I take the 5:35pm train directly to Asakusa, and an hour later I check in to Plat Hostel Keikyu Asakusa. I wouldn’t recommend it. It was a single room on the first floor, and there was a dank standing water smell from the shower drain. My friend later told me this is common for Asian countries on the ground floor.

  • I met up with Wayne (visiting from Taiwan) for ramen at Homemade Noodles Billiken. I reacquainted myself with the vending machine ordering system (push some buttons, pay, get a ticket, present ticket and grab a seat). They make duck ramen, which I haven’t had before. Probably the most fragrant ramen I’ve ever had.

    • Having google translate camera view helped with navigating the menu. Most importantly, knowing exactly what I wanted before I showed up helped tremendously and I’d end up using the ten minutes before arriving anywhere to get my order down.

  • I went to bed at 9:30pm and set my alarm for 2am to dial into a work meeting.

Fri, Jan 17 - Dense day in Tokyo

  • I knew I’d be super tired today. I woke up at 2am, had meetings for two hours, and then slept until 7am. I had a 7-Eleven egg sandwich, fried chicken, and a caffe latte to wake me up.

  • I crammed myself during rush hour onto a train and bus to make my way to teamLab Planets for a 9am reservation I booked two months in advance.

  • I’m glad I booked the reservation as early as I did, which helped disperse crowds more effectively. The only other tip I’d give is that when they’re sharing the briefing video in groups, if you’re not in the first group to pass through, slip through the curtain and proceed to the exhibits (i.e., don’t watch the video). Secondly, don’t head straight to the water exhibits (through the locker room) unless you’re fast at changing into being barefoot with shorts. It may seem like a trivial thing, but these exhibits really shine when you can have a sense of solitude. I opted to do all the other exhibits first before heading to the water exhibit since 98% of the crowd goes there first. I don’t think I would spend more than 90 minutes here. The only final tip I’d give is that wearing something white may help you stand out to get crisper photos in the dark and colorful environment.

  • I walked around and ultimately took the train to Tonpei, a small katsu spot. Despite arriving at opening, I managed to get the last of the five or so seats in the intimate space. It was incredible. I was the only person who broke the cold silence in the room by saying Oishii! (delicious) to the chef, who seemed really grateful. For the whole hour, no one else said a word.

  • I made my way to the beautiful Kane-ji temple by Ueno Park, using GPT to learn some fun facts that seemed true. After a short walk on the grounds, I spent the afternoon walking around Ueno Park, specifically to admire the art in the Tokyo National Museum. I loved the collection and wished I had more time. There are several other museums nearby but I didn’t have time for them. In the park, there was an oden festival. I was too full to enjoy this hotpot winter comfort dish but it smelled incredible to walk through.

  • I got a 5pm haircut scheduled in advance at Hiro Ginza, partially out of curiosity and because it was half the price of getting it at home. My friendly barber spoke no English but the apps were sufficient to bridge the barrier. He asked if I wanted a Japanese style cut and I regrettably said no. I was happy with the experience though!

  • The day was finally winding down. Wayne came back from skiing locally and we lined up for 6pm dinner at Men Mitsui, recommended on the Michelin guide and arguably deserving of star.

    • I had second thoughts upon seeing 15 people lined up ahead of us. The line is misleading and unnecessary; all you need to do is go to the tablet and put your party size down, and retrieve a printed ticket. They’ll come out periodically to call out the next number in line. Do not make the mistake of first waiting in line if you see a tablet. You can stand wherever you want after getting a ticket.

    • The broth on the shoyu ramen was so light and complex, the noodles so bouncy and chewy. What really blew us away was the chashu. It was genius level. Wayne was speechless, which is hard to believe if you know him. The only other option you can add is a side of a katsudon, which the chef has a unique take on. I’d suggest it.

    • There’s a cool vibe here, jazz music playing, the chef flowing like an artist.

  • We then went to a standup comedy show (in English) hosted by Meshida. It served as a bit of a social mixer to chat with expats from around the world. Meshida had a great set on Japanese culture, sex, life, and history. His opener was so bad it was great.

  • I was beyond tired, but Wayne and I stopped at a cocktail bar to chat one last time before he set off. Fortunately, it was the weekend so I wouldn’t have to wake up early for work and I got home at 11pm.

Sat, Jan 18 - Playing tourist, eating well

  • Breakfast in Japan is best done at a konbini, and I think Family Mart is a level better than 7-Eleven. Their spicy famichiki (fried chicken) is far less greasy too. I’d also recommend their melonpan, delicious.

  • I did the touristy thing of starting my day at the Samurai Ninja Museum to live out my 10-year old self dreams. It took a while to get over feeling self-conscious dressing up, but then I was having fun with it. The guide had us play some ninja games (e.g., blow darts, throwing shurikens, foam sword fighting, etc) and four guys my age from Hong Kong folded me into their friend group and I had a blast.

  • For lunch, I went to sushi468, far from tourist traffic. The chef does bo-zushi from the Kansai region, a traditional style known for it’s rectangle/cylinder shape made w/ a wooden mold. Unlike Edo-style, focused on fresh fish, this style is about lightly cured fish that’s preserved (which is what was done before refrigeration. I still prefer Edo-style, but I wanted to try something different. There’s more depth of flavor for each bite. Even though there was only one other person in the restaurant at opening, he told the third person that he was fully booked despite there being five empty seats. If you go, be sure to try the imo sui (potato soup). Slippery with a ball of edamame and potato. Super satisfying on a chilly day.

  • I tried to check out the Senso-Ji temple and within seconds realized it was a mistake to try to work within the crowds. I stopped in for a warm tea and a very good taiyaki snack at Asakusa Naniwaya.

  • Uniqlo was nearby, and I did some shopping for cheap items that’d keep me warm on my long walks. I later found the west entrance to Senso-ji, which had 95% fewer people and I wandered the grounds.

  • I needed to work up an appetite, so I walked through Sumida Park over to the Tokyo Skytree. Two weeks ago I booked a 4pm reservation. I’d been here once before for sunset on New Year’s Eve and wanted to see the view again from above. Just note that it takes a lot longer than you’d think to get up to the top and also to leave the building.

  • I returned to my hostel in Asakusa to pick up my luggage. I would be transferring to another hostel closer to the airport. At 6pm, I checked into Plat Hostel Keikyu Haneda Home. Another single room, although much nicer. Would recommend. I’d have an easy trip to the airport in the morning.

  • There wasn’t much to do in the area besides ramen nearby for dinner at Sato. I was seated alongside a few students quietly slurping down bowls of chukasoba (“Chinese-style noodles”), basically a light soy-based broth and simple toppings. It had more of a clean and simple flavor, nostalgic of early Japanese ramen. Meals like this helped me appreciate the broad range of ramen out there today.

Sun, Jan 19 - Arrival to Hokkaido

  • I had an easy train ride into Haneda, and was sure to grab some flight snacks. My favorites from the trip were the Tough Gummy. Please try it!

  • For my flight to Hokkaido, I had a view of the mountains from my window seat on the left side. If you can choose your seat, that’s what I’d recommend.

  • I landed in New Chitose Airport, which has the most incredible food court I’ve been. My first stop was to 57 Ban Sushi. Save this spot now. There’ll be a long line, but I had time since I was waiting for Luke’s flight to arrive. While you wait, there’s a fresh selection of incredible seafood to stare at. I waited 40 minutes and Luke arrived just in time.

    • We ordered from a tablet and it was all standing sushi counter dining. The translations on the menu options can be strange, but just note that you are only allowed to order a few pieces at a time. Everything was great to incredible. Getting a meal of this quality would be $300 at least when you factor in a tip. I paid only $90. Don’t bother trying the rare keiji sushi, which costs $25 a piece. It was light and airy, but super chewy.

  • We finished up our meal at one of the many Hokkaido soft serve shops before boarding a pre-booked bus that we booked in advance to take us to our lodging.

  • We’d be staying at the Rusutsu Grand Cabin, which I booked via Airbnb. Unfortunately, our bus would only take us to Rusutsu resort, and we’d then need to get a 7min shuttle to our cabin. We’d be splitting a small room with two beds, leaving little room to prep our gear. Fortunately, my skis had arrived! There was a restaurant downstairs that did yakiniku, and while it was great, we were convinced we didn’t want to eat so much meat again.

Mon, Jan 20 - Skiing Rusutsu Resort

  • For our first day we headed over to Rusutsu Resort for some warmup laps. Snow conditions were great, but nothing like the epic powder you see on the Internet. I wanted to avoid Niseko given how many people went there and Rusutsu seemed like a promising alternative. On the lift line, we met up with two other Americans, Dan and Van. We’d meet up with them later. We had zero lines, quiet and beautiful tree runs. Lunch was awesome and definitely more interesting than meals I’ve had at American resorts. I’d happily come back to Rusutsu.

  • Our lodging had a wood-burning tent sauna that we booked in advance, which was fun. Our new friends Dan and Van picked us up for dinner and we drove to the nearby Kimobetsu.

  • The few restaurants in the village said they were fully booked. I get it. They want to keep it locals only; I respect that. We desperately ended up at a surfer-style dive bar izakaya called You Tei. I was skeptical, but the shabu shabu was decent enough.

  • After dinner, Luke and I stopped by a Lawson (another konbini) for breakfast and trail snacks for tomorrow. Our plan would be to try and summit Yotei and ski down into the crater. The avalanche forecast was good, gear checks were clean, and we’d get only five hours of sleep before the biggest ski tour of my life. Fortunately, I decided not to work remotely during the skiing days.

Tues, Jan 21 - Ski touring Yotei

  • We woke up super early. I grabbed a coffee from the cabin’s vending machine and it went well with the Lawson choco-pie. Luke booked us a taxi with the help of the cabin staff to drop us off a the trailhead for the Makkari route on Yotei.

  • We weren’t the only ones at the trailhead at sunrise, but we definitely were the only ones who had a taxi drop us off. The challenge would be arranging a pick-up. We were in a rural area, so coming out here was a pricey ask. The driver looked uneasy when I flashed a translated message asking if he could pick us up at 4pm, but if he couldn’t we could take the bus. He looked uneasy and said we should call him. This would be impossible, since we had no signal. The bus would take over two hours, whereas a cab would be 20min.

  • Unfortunately, I brought my heavy 117 powder skis with shift bindings instead of my lightweight volcano skis. This was going to be a slog. Although we didn’t have powder, we had great conditions for skinning up and avalanche concerns were distant.

  • It took us five hours exactly to reach the crater rim, which is on the lower end of how long it takes most people. We stripped the skins and had our glorious descent into the crater. Luke noted how surreal it was to see the walls get higher on all sides as you ski further down.

  • We had lunch in the crater, watching others draw fresh lines into the crater walls. After a short skin back up to the rim, we began the long descent. It wasn’t ideal conditions, but it was a joy. The heavy skis were the wrong move, but I made it work. My legs were hot jello by 3pm when we made it back to the parking lot.

  • We hoped to find someone who we could hitch a ride with, but nobody was headed in that direction. We made our way to the bus stop ten minutes before it would arrive. Fortunately, we didn’t wait long. Our taxi driver showed up! I’m glad we didn’t end up hitchhiking because he would’ve made the drive for no reason. In total it was 5,600ft of ascent over 7.5miles. We were beyond ecstatic.

  • Another guy from the cabin joined us for dinner. We had a second tour of rejection in the village of Kimobetsu. One of the izakaya owners even said he solely does takeout when he saw us. We celebrated our big day by eating microwaved meals by the trash bin at 7-Eleven for over an hour. I went for seconds.

Wed, Jan 22 - Onsen and buffet day

  • Walked over to Lawson for a breakfast of onigiri. I’m surprised that anyone even sells onigiri without the seaweed separately plastic wrapped from the rice (i.e., with the intricate instructions for opening).

  • We were beat from the day before, so we opted to just hang out at the Rusutsu onsen. We took a late shuttle over to the lodge and were surprised to see that the onsen wouldn’t open up until 2pm. Luke was pretty annoyed since it meant four hours of doing nothing. Our skis were back at the cabin, so we just had a long lunch of udon noodles and sake.

  • Finally, the onsen opened and we were joined by Dan and Van. There was an awesome view in the outdoor heated pool, with snowflakes falling down on us. It was a great reset to have three hours of switching between hot and cold.

  • For dinner we indulged in the all you can eat buffet at the resort. The options were excellent and I’d suggest if you are hungry and in the area. Get there before they open.

Thur, Jan 23 - Flight to Tokyo

  • We arranged for a private shuttle to pick us up at 6:30am for our flights out of New Chitose. In 90 minutes we were back at the airport. I arranged for Yamato transport to deliver my skis to Haneda airport for pickup a week later. The cost was only $30.

  • We grabbed some ramen at Ichigen Ebisoba. They low-simmer Hokkaido shrimp heads for hours. I wasn’t a fan of the broth, but I found myself craving it later. We had some soft serve and said goodbye, taking a peek at Yotei one last time from the airplane window.

  • I was back in Tokyo now alone, this time staying at Unplan Shinjuku in a private room. This hostel was a lot nicer and makes a real effort to have its guests socialize. I had a tight agenda so I didn’t partake.

  • Shinjuku is a lot more nightlife-forward than where I was previously. It wasn’t relevant to me, since I went out for dinner at 5pm so I could go to bed early. I was first in line at Pretty Pork Factory, and even still they were hesitant about whether they could seat me. I had a quick meal of some 14-day aged tonkatsu loin with a deep, nutty flavor.

  • I set my alarm for 1am. I’d be working remotely again.

Fri, Jan 24 - Fish market tour

  • I woke up at 1am and immediately dialed into a meeting. Between calls, I stepped out to 7-Eleven to grab some hot breakfast.

  • After work settled, I got into a cab at 4:30am and left for Toyosu fish market, the largest in the world. There are seven categories of seafood auctioned off daily, but the big draw is the fresh tuna auction. It’s rare to win the visitor lottery to be on the floor, but the viewing gallery above is free.

    • I signed up for a 5am group tour with Toshi-san. He’s well known in the market and runs his own sushi shop. He mentioned the best tuna (bluefin) comes from the Tsugaru Strait between Honshu (big island) and Hokkaido in December. The second best is New England in October.

    • Fish from all over the world is sold here and you can get the best prices as a fisherman. Sometimes a fish will be caught in Cape Cod, air cargo’d to Tokyo, sold at Toyosu, and then air cargo’d back to a Michelin restaurant in California.

    • Toshi took us to the balcony of the market for sunrise and presented live hairy crabs and lobsters he had been carrying around. He walked us through the rest of the market, pointing out wasabi, famous knife shops, and then the old Tsukiji outer market grounds.

    • We finished the tour at his sushi restaurant, which he’s had for 17 years. I’m glad he told us to come hungry because he fed an overwhelming amount of incredible seafood. Although it was pricey, I’d suggest the tour over a Michelin restaurant. You’ll think about it for longer, I guarantee it. I made friends with some of the others in the group, and one of them was a sushi chef himself in Austin so Toshi had him cut some sushi for us!

  • I walked around the city aimlessly until I was hungry again and made my way to Ramen Matsui, just 15 minutes before they closed at 3pm. It’s a husband-and-wife team behind the counter and Michelin bib-g. The ramen had a super light, delicate taste of soy, salt, dried sardines and most uniquely they add a dash of pure rice sake to the dashi for an aroma. The noodles are thin, as are the wontons, the chef’s way of challenging the heaviness some associate with ramen.

  • I went to bed again at 5pm for another early wakeup. This time, not for work though.

Sat, Jan 25 - Rollercoasters and beef

  • I woke up for a few work calls, napped briefly, and then took a 6am cab to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal. I reserved a seat on a 6:45am bus to Fuji-Q Highland, one of Japan’s premier roller coaster parks. In less than two hours, I was at the park.

    • When I arrived, I booked priority passes for every half hour, so instead of waiting in lines, I was dizzily running around the park trying to find the next thrill I scheduled myself for.

    • It was much cheaper than what I would have paid in the US. Also, there was a cute practice of each ride having its own safety song and dance.

  • I got on the return bus to Tokyo. After arriving, I wandered through Golden Gai, an area of six narrow alleys and passageways. There were over 200 tiny shanty-style bars crammed into here, each with its own vibe. I spent New Years Eve here with friends years ago.

  • Dinner was at Genki Taisho Wagyu, which had great meats but I think I can only do a few bites of wagyu before I need to throw in the towel. It’s so rich. The novelty of it has also worn off given how available it is globally.

Sun, Jan 26 - teamLabs, Superb sushi, Sumo

  • Breakfast today was 7-Eleven fried chicken on a stick and melonpan (sweet, buttery bread shaped like a melon). As good as any chicken and waffles gets.

  • On my way to the other teamLab (Borderless) I was finally feeling savvy with the Tokyo subway system. I had a 9am booking that I made two months earlier.

    • The first few minutes felt like I had wasted money to take cool Instagram photos. Once I allowed myself to be carried away by the sounds and sights, it was as close to dream-like as real life can get.

    • As with teamLab Planets, the key is to go early and find pockets os space where you can be alone.

    • My favorite exhibit was the one where you can illustrate a sea creature on paper, have them scan it, and then watch it swim across the walls. I decided to get a printout of that drawing on a tshirt.

  • Afterward, I wandered around the Minato City area below Tokyo Tower. I had time before lunch and wish I had made a list of my favorite neighborhoods in my many miles of walking so far. Although it was far from being a grand attraction, I loved spending some quiet time at the Atago Jinja Shrine, set on a hilltop guarded by 86 steep, high-footed stone steps.

    • Note: there’s a proper way to enter the torii (gate). Pause, bow once, and enter on the left or right (the center is reserved for kami —spirits). When you leave, walk backwards a few steps before turning away. You’ll see others do this probably.

  • I walked over to lunch at Tachiguizushi Akira, hidden in a basement. There was a line of forty people 15 minutes before they opened. I had a reservation made about 7 weeks earlier and skipped ahead. The catch with the reservation was that I needed to spend a certain minimum. That wouldn’t be a problem.

    • I was presented with a menu before entering and asked to mark how many pieces I wanted. Thanks to my crash course in sushi a few days ago, I was very aware of what I wanted: chu-toru (medium fatty tuna) and uni (sea urchin) primarily. I also loved the ama ebi (sweet shrimp).

    • It’s all standing room only and there’s a more casual vibe here. It was one of the best (if not the best) sushi experience I’ve ever had. I got a big reaction from the chef when in Japanese I said “For one hour, I died and went to heaven.” He invited me to come back. For my next visit, I’d do at least two visits here.

  • For the second half of the day, I went to the sumo tournament. The tickets were hard to get, especially for the final 15th day. My ticket, purchased seven weeks earlier on Viator, was $110 and came with a guide.

    • Security at the Ryogoku Arena was unusually high, and I’d later learn that Prime Minister Shigeru Ishiba was arriving to present the trophy at the end. Using GPT was helpful to understand a lot of the pre-match rituals I was seeing.

    • The current Yokozuna, grand champion, retired in the middle of the tournament due to injuries. I had the great luck of being able to witness the rise of a new Yokozuna.

    • The entire experience was fantastic and I found myself getting really invested in certain wrestlers, learning their styles and backstory. For four hours of entertainment, it was a bargain. Also know that there really isn’t a bad seat in the area. I had 2nd Floor B-class Chair. I would absolutely do it again.

  • I capped off the day with a 6:30pm reservation at Sushi Kimura. I booked this two months in advance on TableCheck. There’s another high end Kimura sushi spot in Tokyo (different owner) that’s world-renowned for it’s aged sushi concept, but it’s priced far more than I’d be willing to pay.

    • Kimura was an exceptional meal and I was really happy with the choice to upgrade to a sake pairing. I even asked him for seconds. Takashima Omachi rice is one of Japan’s oldest and most revered strains for sake brewing. This super premium sake was by far the smoothest, most velvety sake I’ve ever tasted. It had a long peachy nectarine finish.

    • I frequently threw in the few Japanese phrases I memorized without hesitating: asking for more sake, dropping compliments (anata wa tensai desu = you are a genius), asking where certain fishes were from, and of course saying the Japanese name for each piece of sushi. The couple from Hong Kong next to me assumed I was an expat. They’d been visiting for years and never learned more than arigato.

    • Like a really cool guy, I said “agari” at the end to signal I was done. Chef Kimura gave me a subtle nod that signaled to me that I was a cool gaijin.

  • I was pretty giddy from the sake and the electricity of the tournament, so I walked around in the evening. Tokyo feels really safe and I can just shut my alertness off while listening to an audiobook.

Mon, Jan 27 - Morning jog, tempura, wandering, and gaming

  • To start the day, I took a cab to the Hanzōmon Gate. I’d be doing a 4mi loop run around the Imperial Palace, which has been the residence of the Emperor since 1868. It was a beautiful run and I stopped often for photos. Unfortunately, 80% of my pics from today were lost.

  • For lunch, I went to Tempura Kikage Yukimura, recommended as Michelin Bib-g. The chef is a savant when it comes to tempura. He also gave me a free piece and the staff bowed profusely in unison when I offered to sit at the counter to free up a table for two others in line.

    • The sauce he drizzles on the tempura uses the tsugi-tashi “perpetual sauce” method: whenever he’s low, he adds to it. He’s been doing that for 50 years, so there’s a deep and unique flavor that can’t be recreated.

  • I wandered into some high-end malls in Ginza to admire the view from the rooftops, bought my niece some Pokemon stuff, and had a snack at Tokyo’s oldest onigiri shop. I was a little bored today, I’ll admit.

  • I decided to check out the Red Tower Tokyo in the evening. It’s an immersive high-tech VR/AR park right under Tokyo Tower. I showed up at 7:30pm and had a blast. I would highly recommend you wear gym clothes or something you can be active in. You will work up a sweat. Some of the games are pretty physical. It’s more fun with another person, but I had a blast on my own too.

  • I found myself at one of the Afuri ramen locations. It’s a chain but I adore it, considering it a top three bowl on this trip. They add yuzu to the ramen which gives a super fragrant and light feel to it. I got their spicy tsukemen ramen which I loved. Will get warm noodles instead of cold noodles next time. The only photos from today are from the ramen shop.

Tues, Jan 28 - Taiyaki, park walk, bouldering

  • This would be my last full day in Tokyo. I was getting a bit homesick after nearly two weeks. The morning began at the semi-secluded shrine of Sanno Inari Shrine. It’s a nice place, but you’ll want to get there very early to minimize the number of tourists you see trying to do pull-ups on the gates.

  • I wandered the quiet neighborhood until I found Taiyaki Wakaba, which has been around since 1953. It’s considered a top three taiyaki spot in Tokyo. I’m not a big fan of red bean paste, but this was incredible. The batter was super light and crisp from the cast-iron mold.

  • I then headed to the Akasaka Palace (State Guest House). It’s inspired by Versailles and Buckingham Palace. It was kinda cool seeing the inside, but I wouldn’t highly recommend it. The Meiji Period has my least favorite Japanese art.

  • I went on a walk through Yoyogi Park, which I really liked. It felt more like I could wander aimlessly here. It was definitely my favorite.

  • I went to lunch at Pork Vindaloo Taberu Fuku-Daitoryo. In a small footprint with five seats, this guy makes pork vindaloo and that’s it. He serves forty people a day before he closes. It was more tangy and less spicy than I expected. I wouldn’t be in a rush to go back. It was kind of amusing though to hear the Japanese guy speak English with an Indian accent.

  • I decided to check out a local bouldering gym, Rocky Climbing. I grabbed some crappy rental shoes for my session. I did notice how slippery the rubber was, and after 20 minutes of climbing, my foot slipped and I overloaded my finger. It hurt so I called it a day.

  • I had a very early 4pm dinner at Menya Musashi, a chain known for its superb noodles and thick, gravy-like broth. I went for the tsukemen (dipping noodles). The heavy noodles were probably my favorite noodle.

Wed, Jan 29 - Last burst of fun in Tokyo

  • My flight back to Seattle was at 6:10pm, so I still had much of the day to explore. I made a last-minute decision to head to teamLabs Planets again for a 9am booking. A few days ago, they announced a new expansion to the exhibits, doubling their size. I had nothing else to do.

  • I had my final lunch at one of the few ramen shops in the world that has a Michelin star, Soba House Konjiki-Hototogisu. The broth really stood out here. It’s made with a triple soup base: tonkotsu for richness, clam for brininess, and dried fish/kelp for depth. They go a bit extra here and throw in black truffle oil for some luxurious aromatics.

  • At Haneda airport, the skis I shipped from Hokkaido were there waiting for me. Pickup took only 15 seconds. Wow.

  • My flight was delayed and I thanked the Delta agent because it meant I could fit one last meal. She found that hilarious. I settled on ramen one more time, at Rokurinsha’s airport stall. They’re one of Tokyo’s most famous tsukemen shops. Just like Menya Musashi, it’s a super-thick broth made from slow-cooking pork, chicken, seafood, and veggies.

Notes

I had an incredible two weeks in Japan. I got to see friends I hadn’t seen in a while, watch the sumo finals, enjoy some immersive museums, eat incredible ramen, ride some roller coasters, deepen my sushi appreciation, learn some new words, and so much more. Below are some tips.

  1. Reserve in advance when it matters.
    The best sushi counters and some standout restaurants require reservations made weeks in advance, often with a minimum spend. For me, that wasn’t a downside. I was already planning to eat well, and it let me skip long lines and lock in meals I still think about.

  2. There isn’t any one “best” ramen.
    Saying one ramen is the best doesn’t really make sense. There’s huge variation in broth, noodles, fat level, and toppings, and your own preference and mood matter just as much. One pattern I noticed is that Michelin-recognized ramen shops tend to favor very light, delicate bowls with balance over punch. If you want heavy, aggressive flavors, a no-name shop can be just as satisfying. Be highly skeptical of gimmicks, especially from influencers.

  3. Wagyu is overrated as a full meal.
    If I could cut one meal, it would be a dedicated wagyu dinner. A few bites are incredible, but it’s so rich that it stops being enjoyable fast. Share it, treat it like a tasting, and move on.

  4. Expect to lose weight without trying.
    Between walking 8–12 miles a day, smaller portions, and lighter food, I lost weight over two weeks without any effort. Granted, I did have an epic ski tour.

  5. Walk everywhere and wear truly comfortable shoes.
    Tokyo is a walking city even when you use transit constantly. Comfortable shoes matter more than style. You’ll be on your feet all day, often on hard surfaces, and you’ll enjoy the city more if you’re not thinking about your feet.

  6. Carry a small side bag.
    A crossbody or sling bag is perfect for phone, battery pack, hand cream, lip balm, tissues, and trash (there are almost no trash bins). Backpacks are fine but feel excessive in tight spaces, and pockets alone aren’t enough. I never wore one before this, but I loved my tomtoc and these mini carabiners were great for clipping bags onto it.

  7. Cold, wind, and dry air add up.
    Winter was cold and windy. Bring moisturizer, lip balm, and sunglasses. The sun can be intense on clear days, and dry air wrecks your skin fast. Buy these at any konbini.

  8. Learn some basic Japanese beforehand.
    Even a small amount goes a long way. YouTube was more useful than apps for me. Knowing how to order, say you’re done, give compliments, and ask simple questions made interactions warmer and more human.

  9. Decide what you want before you arrive.
    Many restaurants move fast, use vending machines or tablets, or don’t have English menus. Knowing exactly what you’re ordering before you walk in reduces stress and makes the experience smoother. I’d often spend ten minutes on Google Maps or Tabelog before arriving.

  10. If there’s an iPad, don’t stand in line.
    This sounds obvious after the fact, but if a restaurant has a tablet for sign-ups, use it immediately. Get your ticket and wait anywhere you want. Standing in a physical line first is usually unnecessary in these instances.

  11. Use Tabelog, not Google ratings.
    Anyone who has traveled to Japan knows this, but if it’s your first time, this is crucial to know: Tabelog ratings are more meaningful. A 3.5 is excellent. A 4.0 is elite. Google reviews skew generous and are less useful for food in Japan.

  12. Ship skis and luggage whenever possible.
    Using Yamato Transport was one of the best decisions of the trip. Public transit with skis or large bags would have been miserable. The paperwork looks intimidating, but staff will help if you have addresses ready.

  13. Build in rest days on physical trips.
    Ski touring, long walks, jet lag, and late nights stack up. The onsen day reset my body and probably saved the second half of the trip. Foot massages are plentiful and cheap too.

  14. Be flexible and accept rejection.
    Especially outside major cities, restaurants may turn you away even if they look empty. It’s not personal. Have backups, konbini food is excellent, and some of my most memorable meals were.

Best things I've eaten around Seattle in 2025

Just as I did in 2024, I kept a list with notes of all the restaurants that I’ve eaten at (2024 first half, 2024 second half). Here’s a compilation of the memorable meals. These are not restaurant reviews. They’re just my private notes that I polished up a bit. I made a Google map of these notes that you can follow which captures favorites from this year and past years.

In my shortlist, I gave them 1-4 stars.

4 stars - This blew my mind. I feel so lucky to have experienced this. Everything about this was impressive and exceptional. I’ll be thinking about this for months.

3 stars - This was very good. I can’t wait to tell my friends about this. There were a few things that weren’t perfect, but I’m still looking forward to coming back.

2 stars - I’d look forward to stopping by if I’m passing through the area.

1 star - I liked it, but I’m not in a rush to come back.

4 stars

Mariposa Taqueria - Came here after oysters from Taylor Shellfish. Cute little town that's lucky to have this restaurant, which feels a bit like a California bungalow. Perfect PNW summer vibe. Food was exceptional, especially anything with corn. Pure focus on food, no website and barely any social media. Not cheap but the quality is on par with pricier restaurants.

Deep Sea Sugar And Salt - Still the most impressive cakes I’ve ever tasted. All the flavors feel intentional and balanced. Order ahead for pickup if you already know what you want since they often sell out, and note that one slice easily feeds two. The London Fog is incredible and remains my favorite. The Vanilla Bean Custard is simple but deeply satisfying. The Chocolate Blackout was Leah’s favorite and I liked it, though it was a bit too rich for me. The Cardamom Rose was interesting and worth trying once but not one I’d order again. They also make cupcakes.

Panda Noodle Bar - Excellent noodle spot with deeply flavorful broth and tender beef that falls apart with chopsticks. The medium spice level is perfect (i.e., it’s spicy), and the large bowl is the best value for more noodles and beef. The space is clean and simple with QR code ordering, and while it’s a little pricier than expected for the area, the quality easily justifies it. The beef stew bowl is outstanding, but also get the wontons in chili oil. Went back a second time after bouldering and it is indeed worthy of the rating. Also tried their dried noodles with the pork sauce, excellent (and I make less of a mess on my clothes).

Joule - One of the most creative restaurants in the city. Sitting by the fire outside is the move. The short rib steak is perfect—get it medium rare and share it if you can. The spicy rice cakes with crisped chorizo are excellent, and the Kalbi burger is superb. The scallop fried rice and uni noodles are solid but not must-orders. The scallion pancake with smoked roe was fun to try once. Chinese broccoli and kung pao squash weren’t worth it for me. For dessert, the pandan coconut cheesecake was great, but skip the Joule Box. If you want cake, go to Paper Cake up the street instead.

Lupo - Dark, dimly lit, and cozy. Ideal for a date night. Pizzas take a while because of the small oven, so get two for two people. It’s run by the same folks as Stevie’s Famous, and they provide a bottle of chili oil, which I loved. The chicory, hazelnut, and pear salad was good but not something I’d rush to order again. The Hot Coppa pizza was our favorite: great balance of fatty meat, spice, sweetness, and burrata. The cacio e pepe pizza was too cheesy for both Leah and me. The delicata squash special pizza was good, and we enjoyed it. Mushroom pizza was excellent, would do it again. The sourdough special ice cream was an experimental flavor: delicious and malty, served at the perfect soft ice cream temperature. The salted chocolate chip cookie and the pistachio ice cream flavors were incredible. No bad choices. No surprise, as Stevie’s Famous has incredible ice cream, too.

Revel - Same owner as Joule. Came here for my surprise group birthday dinner. The Sunday feast is a pre-fixe menu of 4 courses is a steal at $33. The menu changes monthly. Everything we had was excellent, but everyone’s favorite was that spicy Korean chicken w/ rice. Also loved the miso napa cabbage.

3 stars

Naan and Curry Issaquah - Came here with Patrick after a Raging River ride and was pleasantly surprised. Dumb name, great food. Pakistani spot with legit, authentic dishes. The naan is excellent. The achari boti chicken was incredible, and the lamb biryani was one of the better ones I’ve had, super fragrant and light. The tandoori paneer was fine but not worth getting again.

Indigo Cow - Made with milk from Hokkaido and unbelievably creamy without being overly sweet. The matcha swirl is my favorite. Skip the add-ons and always get the black waffle cone. I'd go so far as to say it's better than what I had in Hokkaido at the top shops.

Wilmott's Ghost - Located under the Spheres, which might turn off some. Was a convenient location to impress a tourist but I ended up impressing myself with the food. Pricey, but the pan pizza is excellent. The one I remember most is the sausage with preserved lemon. The entire menu looks excellent, stellar staff as well. I need to try the tiramisu.

Hey Bagel - The everything bagel with the spicy scallion schmear was excellent. The bagels have a crisp crust and a soft, chewy interior when fresh. The Fresno pepper bialy was light, slightly smoky. Avoid the line and go at odd hours. I went back recently to see if it was really worth such a high rating, and indeed it is. Tried the sea salt bagel this time. The raspberry curry w/ hot honey schmear and the chili crisp were both well done, but I still love the spicy scallion.

Tam Tam Pizza - Great outdoor seating and perfect after a ride at Galbraith. The stracciatella margherita was the standout, followed by the cherry guanciale. The mushroom pizza was a miss since the “garlicky greens” turned out to be broccoli, which threw it off (i.e., would've been better w/o).

Taylor Shellfish Farms - Perfect for a summer day after mountain biking in Galbraith. The scenic drive adds to the experience. Get the dozen oysters. I especially liked the Sumo Kumo and Fat Bastard varieties, but the Sunseeker was a standout. Avoid visiting during busy times.

Mas Cafe - Not open for dinner, which is a shame because the food’s great for the price. The tacos are the move, especially the chicken mole. The red salsa is excellent. The chicken mole burrito was just okay, and I wouldn’t get it again. The chorizo breakfast burrito was fine, maybe worth trying the veggie version next time. The mango mojito smoothie was refreshing but not sure I need all that sugar.

Larb Thai - Came here while waiting on car maintenance and was blown away. Super legit Thai food with Thai music playing and a big menu full of interesting dishes. The larb moo with sticky rice was excellent. The grilled squid (Pla Muek Yang) was perfectly cooked with a sharp, flavorful dipping sauce. Definitely a place to come back to and keep exploring the menu.

Thai Tom - Eat in person since takeout doesn’t do it justice and you get to watch the wok flames in action. Cash only. Pad Thai is always excellent, with smoky, crispy egg. Pad See Ew was just okay both times I tried it, sadly. Drunken Noodles are incredible. Swimming Rama was great even as leftovers. Basil chicken was forgettable. Spice level 4 is the sweet spot for me.

Saint Bread - Nice covered patio by the marina, set in a former motorboat repair shop. Great for breakfast meetings or slow mornings. Skip the orange miso cake, cardamom knot, and beef kare. The cardamom croissant and school bun are the move, especially the pineapple school bun which was fantastic. The canelé was solid, and the chocolate chip cookie was excellent (always get one). The gochudoodle cookie is slightly spicy, nicely savory and sweet, with crunchy seeds. The burger sounded better than it tasted, a little heavy on the sweet mayo. They also accept InKind payments if you want a small discount.

La Marea - Incredible tostadas, though pricey at around $17 each and the food takes a while to come out, so plan for that. The Ahi Tuna with XO sauce and salsa macha was my favorite, followed by the Cured Hamachi with smoked albacore and habanero. The Aguachile de Callo with scallops, passionfruit, and aji amarillo was excellent, though I wished for an extra plain tostada since two wasn’t enough. They were sold out of chips, which I’ll have to try next time because the salsas are phenomenal. They do $10 tostadas on Thursdays, so I’ll definitely be back. Skip the oysters.

Olympia Coffee Roasting - Beautiful interior and usually easy to find a seat even when it’s busy. They have a small but solid pastry selection, including a chocolate chip cookie made in a muffin tin which was great. The Wi-Fi is not reliable depending where you sit , and the password is “sweetheart” in all lowercase. Good for hanging out or getting a bit of work done.

FY Malatang - Everything here is super fresh, and the $16-per-pound pricing feels fair for the quality. You grab a big bowl and fill it with whatever looks good—meats, vegetables, mushrooms, noodles—and the spread is restocked often. It’s easy to go overboard; mine came out to 1.6 pounds. After weighing your bowl, you pick a soup base. The spicy beef bone broth was rich, flavorful, and perfect for a cold day. There’s a great sauce bar to mix your own dipping sauces while you wait. I’d skip the marinated chicken next time, but everything else was excellent. Save your receipt for a free mini Häagen-Dazs at the end.

Ciudad - Came here after climbing and it’s best with more than two people so you can try a bit of everything. The space is small but airy, with an open industrial feel and a big skylight overhead. Started with the flatbreads and dips. The flatbreads were just okay, but the baba ghanoush was incredible and worth getting on its own next time. The brussels sprouts were skippable, while the beets with yogurt and pistachios were good, and the chicory salad with delicata squash was amazing and big enough to share. From the grill, both the chicken and pork collar were excellent. The side sauces (burnt honey, harissa, and mojo rojo) were all great, but the mojo rojo is the one to always order. Take the leftovers of the sauce home.

2 stars

Good Luck Bread - Another non-restaurant. Every Saturday afternoon, you can pick up the best frozen pizza you’ve ever tasted. The pro move is to grab a pizza or two, drive over to Deep Sea Sugar for desert and have an easy and spectacular dinner at home. Follow on Instagram to be notified about interesting new toppings.

Indian-Nepali Kitchen - Located on Aurora, so not the nicest area. Did a big group dinner at their new location. It's not as great as before, but the standouts are still the naan, tandoori chicken momos, potatoes and mustard greens, and the sadheko chicken. I've tried nearly everything on the menu at this point.

Miss Pho - Came on a cold Sunday evening and had about a 15-minute wait, so write your name on the list when you arrive. The Phở Sa Tế was superbly flavorful with high-quality cuts of meat. I got spice level 4 out of 5 and will go for 5 next time. The owner mentioned a secret menu with dumplings and other dishes, so it’s worth asking about on a return visit.

Ben's Bread - The blue corn cookie is still one of my all time favorite cookies. The wait is perpetually long, but if you just want a loaf you can just grab one and venmo them. I always will try whatever savory pastry they have. Given the crowds, don’t expect a warm and welcoming staff since they have to keep the line moving.

Mezzanotte - Would be as highly regarded as Spinasse if it was in a better location. Tajarin al Coltello with sage butter is excellent. The outdoor covered patio is nice, but not if you’re bothered by the sound of planes overhead. I really should get their house-made focaccia next time.

Nasai Teriyaki - Came here while getting the car serviced and was impressed. The spicy chicken and gyoza combo is excellent. The gyoza were very good, and the chicken was grilled perfectly with nice char. Paying $1 extra for spicy was worth it, with chili flecks in the sauce and a level 4 out of 5 that felt just right. On a second visit, 3 out of 5 might have been better. The chicken breast is leaner but not as flavorful or smoky.

Paseo - Super savory and juicy Caribbean roast pork sandwich. Order online to skip the line, but don’t be late picking it up. Very messy, so be prepared for sticky hands. I’d get it again but would like to try other sandwiches. Priced well, considering its popularity. Definitely needs the hot sauce. Doesn’t hold up well as takeout.

Tacos Tacalitlan - Easy parking and a convenient stop in North Burlington without straying far from the highway. The tacos are very affordable but small, classic street-taco size. Three tacos and a pork tamale made for a perfect meal. I had the adobada, chorizo, and fish, all tasty and well-seasoned. They also sell a variety of Mexican snacks, and the outdoor seating is nice for a casual stop.

La Tortuga Loca - Stopped in just before closing and got great service from a friendly waiter. The Azteca taco with steak, cactus, onions, and avocado was one of the best tacos I’ve had all year. The sope was solid, though I wouldn’t get the Al Pastor again. The mixed tostada had excellent seafood, but the tostada base itself could have been better.

Bongos - Fun, lively spot with a great casual vibe. Parking can be tricky, but it’s worth it. I’ve only ever had the West Indies plate since the citrus pork keeps selling out, but everything on the menu looks good enough to come back for and I’d like to try it all.

Many Bennies - I had the sweet cream and strawberry on a waffle cone. The cone was thin and tasty but got soggy fast. The ice cream started melting almost immediately, though the portion size was generous. The sweet cream was good but not quite on the level of Alice & Brohm in Squamish. Nice space overall and good for hanging out after bouldering.

Blackbird Bakery - If all quiches tasted like this, I'd make them once a week. Some day I'll try their other offerings.

Flora Bakehouse - A perfect neighborhood bakery that’s worth going out of your way for. The pastries are phenomenal, with plenty of savory options too. The rooftop deck is a great spot to sit, and the place has a family-friendly feel with lots of kids around.

Mexican Seoul - Tried the Al Pastor and Kalbi tacos. The pricier Gringa taco is definitely worth it since it’s packed with more filling. The salsa bar is phenomenal, super fresh, and full of flavor. The spicy poblano and bibim sauces were my favorites. I even ordered chips just to try more sauces—the chips themselves were fine, nothing special. Would absolutely come back. The negative reviews mostly seem to be about the ordering system, so just order on the website from your phone before you arrive.

Fang's Noodle House - Stopped in for lunch after a doctor’s appointment and was surprised how busy it was on a weekday. Tried the Mala Spicy Beef Rib Dry Mix Noodle, their signature dish. The noodles are thick, heavy, and chewy in a satisfying way, and the wagyu beef short rib was high quality. I got spice level 5, which was flavorful but intense, probably better to stick with 4 next time. The heat is more about depth of flavor than pure spice. I’d like to come back with a group to try the wontons, dumplings, and string beans. A bit pricey, but the quality matches.

Tacos La Cuadra - The hype is real, but I wouldn’t wait in a long line for these. These are excellent al pastor tacos. Tried the Rainier Ave S location next to a Safeway. Sketchy af area and at one point needed to eat in my car at night. Don’t make the mistake of ordering at the wrong taco stand, as I did. Check the sign to make sure it’s La Cuadra or you’ll regret it. Thinly sliced and charred, but juicy and full of flavor. Ideal as tacos but great as a burrito as well.

Fortuna - Came for weekday lunch and people were already lining up half an hour before opening. Someone handed out samples of their schiacciata bread, which is thinner and crispier than focaccia. We split the Bambino (mortadella) and the Soprano (capicola). The Bambino was good, but the Soprano was on another level with its marinated onion and red pepper paste, fragrant gorgonzola, and rich, melty pile of meat. I almost didn’t want to share it. Planning to try the Tonno next. It’s a pricey sandwich, but the quality and friendliness of the staff make it feel worth it. There’s covered patio seating too.

Bajon en Seattle - Hidden inside a grocery store in South Park, a neighborhood most people overlook. I came for the lomo al jugo sandwich, which the Seattle Times listed among the city’s top ten. The pork loin is cooked in white wine and grilled until juicy and savory, served with avocado, tomato, and a generous spread of garlic aïoli (I asked for it light since it can get messy). The housemade bread is okay, though I kept thinking the pork would be amazing over rice too. The owner is warm and genuinely kind, and the place feels like something special that deserves more attention.

Ba Bar - The convenience is hard to beat at the Uvillage location. The broth is very good and complex. Had the Pho Tai Lan and enjoyed it. Happy hour is 2-5pm on weekdays. Had the Pho-rench dip or w/e they call it. Superb. Delicious. Loved it and only wished it was spicier. Really clever idea executed well.

Osteria La Spiga - Came here with Alessandro and let him take the lead since he’s a regular. Had a glass of Lambrusco and Barbera, great. The full prosciutto board was incredible and possibly the best I’ve had. The lasagne verdi was excellent and perfectly cooked. We split a crostata alla pesca with pistachio gelato, which was a standout finish. The only miss was the post-dinner espresso, which tasted like an overextracted pull. We spent about three hours over the meal in a spacious, pleasant room. The owner is from Emilia Romagna and the menu reflects that, though parking in the area is a major hassle.

Marugame Udon - Easy stop for a late Sunday lunch before an airport visit. Set in a mall with ample parking. I had the signature Nikutama udon, and while I ordered a large, the regular would be plenty for a hungry person. The noodles were thick and springy, the broth had a delicate sweet and savory balance, and those perfectly thin beef slices showed up in every bite. I also tried the pumpkin tempura, which wasn’t fresh from the fryer but still tasty enough to order again. My only gripe is that it’s far from home.

Wayland Mill - Finally open 7 days a week so I came for breakfast. Gorgeous, warm-glassy interior that reminds you that they also do dinner. Yasuaki was there, friendly as ever. Had the hojicha canelé, which completely changed my opinion on this pastry. So glad I didn't skip it. Camber coffee was excellent. Also great, and different, was the biscuits w/ miso-chashu gravy. Looking forward to coming by more often.

Cafetal Quilombo Cafe - Came by for lunch after bouldering at Momentum. So glad I did. Easy parking. Inside there's traditional Mexican music playing and it really felt like I was in a cafe in cdmx, and not one of the gentrified area ones. Got the green salsa chicken tamal which was so good. Delicious masa. Tried to eat it slowly because I liked it so much. Tamal plate came w/ rice and beans, which were good but might've been better if they'd warmed it up. Would get again still. Horchata is a must. They use real rice, not powder. Normally I never get this because it's too sweet. This was perfect. Don't bother with the esquites, which was a special on the menu. Friendly owner who really gives a damn about coffee, so I'll have to try that next time.

Obutekim - Stopped by for lunch after an appointment. The buffet, kept warm in covered dutch ovens, was well-stocked despite an empty restaurant. So many options to choose from, all for $26. Didn't opt for the $4 upgrade to get steak but I was more than happy with the feijão marrom, beef stew, chicken stew, fried pork, corn, mashed potatoes, and the corn. Ate too much and cleared my plate. Every item was a hit, felt like a bargain.

1 star

Los Chilangos - Fortunately there are multiple locations throughout the eastside when I’ve got errands here. Al Pastor taco is very good, and the spicy salsa is excellent.

Mean Sandwich - Tried the steak tartare and it was really nice. Crunchy and meaty. Service is really great too. Chill backyard to eat at.

Chocolat Vitale - Good spot for a date (limited seating). There’s a record shop inside as well. The hot chocolate is what they're known for. Ask about the chocolate and the owner, Janet, will talk to you forever about the origins of the beans. Lots of different bars of chocolate that’d make good gifts for a chocolate lover. She’s likely to give you a free sample of whatever drink she’s making for someone else. She also carries other goods like dried pasta, olive oil, antique bowls, etc.

Gainsbourg - Happy hour pricing runs all day on Mondays. The $7 burger is great, and it’s worth adding gruyere or blue cheese for a dollar more. The small roasted beet salad on the happy hour menu is also good. The place has a relaxed dive bar vibe.

Joe’z Bayside Market and Cafe - Fries are excellent, super salty, and come in a huge portion. The pizza is great too, with flavorful dough; I had the spicy ruga and loved it. The staff bros are really friendly. On another visit I tried the smash burger, a double with jalapeños. It was indulgent and tasty, though a single would’ve been plenty. The tater tots were also good, and portions overall are very generous.

Other Coast Cafe - Had the detonator sandwich after spin class with Eric. Spicier version of their popular Rajun Cajun. Very delicious. Perfectly toasted baguette. Also had a very good coconut curry soup. Bathroom is in the back past the counter. It does take a while for your order to be ready.

Secret Fort - Super friendly and chill staff. Salmon carpaccio was excellent, as were the skewers. Mochi bacon was unique and worth getting again. Very legit coal yakitori. BBQ Eel chirashi bowl was excellent, as was the hokkaido chirashi sushi. Would not recommend the sushi rolls though.

Metropolitan Grill - Bourbon dry aged steak from Snake river farms (NY strip 14oz) may be the best steak I've had. Got it medium as I shared it with Leah and Luke. Slightly cheaper with a Costco gift card.

Due Cucina - Good pasta in a fast-casual setting. Almost feels like the Chipotle-fication of pasta dishes, which is a great thing. I’ve seen Costco do gift cards, which would make sense if you come often.

Tanoor - There aren’t many good options in South Lake Union. Came in out of desperation and was pleasantly surprised. Great Lebanese food. Convenient for large groups and families with kids. Seems perpetually full, and the service has always been generous and friendly.

Local Tide - It's a good fish sandwich. Very light. I would've liked some more spice though. I'd get it again. I think it's a bit overhyped but the friendliness of the staff is second to none. A bit dark inside, somewhat limited seating.

Ba Sa - Dry Aged Eye of Ribeye Beef Pho is the signature dish. It’s good, buy you’ll pay for it. Not sure if I’d get it again but it’s worth trying once if you want to treat yourself.

Violet - Greeted us with a free sparkling red, which was a fun way to start and genuinely tasty. The room feels more casual than the menu suggests, but in a comfortable way. The salted burrata with strawberry, basil, and balsamic was interesting with the bread and had an almost ice cream vibe. Not sure I would repeat it. The mixed green salad was simple but priced well, and I would order it again. The Joel Robuchon potato puree smooth, silky, and a great pairing for the mains. For the price, I would get it every time. The steelhead salmon was cooked perfectly, and the brown butter and miso cauliflower came in little bits that worked well. Leah even loved the skin, which she never eats. The roasted chicken was great with the corn, and the jus under the chicken was delicious along with more of that potato puree. We skipped dessert and walked to Molly Moon's before wandering through Elliott Bay Books.

Sea Wolf - Still the best or second-best baguette in the city, especially nice to have the option of a smaller one. The chocolate croissant is solid but the chocolate could be better. The savory pastry with sliced peaches, vanilla cream, and cornmeal streusel was good. Always love to try their seasonal brioche. The kouign amann was fine but not memorable, and I wouldn’t get it again. Tipping has started to become a thing here.

DERU - Surprised there was a 20min wait at 1:30pm on a weekday. Unusually located in a residential area, which is nice. Don't bother trying to park in front; instead park at a side street. Even if you saw a spot, it’s awkward. Had the kale and sweet potato salad and it was wonderful, would get again happily. Tried a bit of the pastrami sandwich and the sweet potato fries, also nice. Took a carrot cake slice to go. Absolutely enormous. Found it to be pleasant, Leah says it's the best she's ever had. Will want to try the coconut next time.

Momi Indian Kitchen - Great location on the lake, new as well. The owner lady is real nice. They take pride in their biryani, so I had to try it. I got the Vijayawada chicken biryani, heavily flavored with masala with bits of boneless and lightly fried chicken. Delicious and was happy with the 'spicy' level which even Leah was able to handle. The price is reflective of the quantity and the location. The other chicken biryani's are also boneless, with the exception of the Dum Biryani. She suggested Gongura chicken next time, which is a bit more sour. Not the best biryani I've had in Seattle, but it's good.

Nirmal's - Parking is a pain, sometimes feels sketchy at night. Otherwise I’d come more often. Super friendly owner that immediately treats you like he’s been waiting to host you all day. Samosas were just okay. Saoji Chicken Rassa was fall-off-bone chicken, very fragrant. Enjoyed but wouldn't get again. Chicken Dum Biryani was phenomenal, one of the best I've ever had when I first tried it. It wasn’t as good the second time. The tandoori chicken I still think about. Smoky, juicy, and so well spiced.

Un Bien - The roast pork is the star: tender, juicy, and heavily seasoned, with a sweet-savory citrus vibe. Toasted baguette gives enough structure for five seconds before everything collapses into a messy, delicious pile of aioli, caramelized onions, and pickled jalapenos.

Backyard Bagel - Very good bagel for $5.50 with schmear. Everything bagel was generously seasoned, lightly crisp and airy. Spicy scallion schmear was excellent and balanced. Interior at the University Village location is comfortable for hanging out.

The Shambles - Met up with Jason and Cliff for happy hour (4–5pm) in a warm, wood-filled space that feels like a friendly old pub without the dankness. Started with an excellent rye Manhattan ($9) and had the Shamburger, a half-pound chuck patty with a sharp dill/dijon aioli, aged white cheddar, and a pickle/calabrian chili relish; well salted and absolutely delicious. We split the Steak Frites with a 7oz hanger steak, which was also great, though I’d pick the burger always next time. Fries are generously salted, short, and thin, and not the best.

Little Chinook’s - Went for the Salmon and chips, light coating over generous slabs of fish. Could've eaten several of them. The fries were probably the one of the best in the city, craggy on the outside and fluffy inside. Generous portion there too. The slaw itself was boring. A meal for one might be shareable with two if you're not too hungry. Friendly staff. I should spend more time at the Fisherman's Terminal, especially after a climbing session at VW. Easy parking. The area feels like it's trapped in a time capsule. Great to walk around and admire all of the boats docked there.

Minato - Had their Chirashi bowl (bluefin tuna, salmon, yellowtail, scallops, shrimp, ikura). At $25 it's a fantastic deal for the quality and quantity of fish you get. Excellent sushi rice as well. I'd come here more often if they weren't takeout only. Would come back for their non-sushi donburi as well.

Tacos Chukis -Adobada is excellent. So is the nopal. I'm not sure which I prefer more as they're both great. Skip the chicken as it’s dry. Asada is fine. Baby burrito is a way better deal than taco. Paying a few cents extra for a side of the spicy salsa is a great idea. The guac isn't interesting enough to pay extra for. The side of beans is fairly boring, but good filler. Excellent value for the price. Order at the iPad, grab a number. Doesn't seem to be a tipping restaurant.

Banh Town - Had the grilled pork banh mi, which someone on reddit very into ranking sandwiches described as the 4th best sandwich in the city. It was great, very saucy and gelatinized. There are other sandwiches I’d like to check out, so I’ll be back. Interior is kinda dingy, sticky tables and whatnot. Ten percent discount if you pay with cash.

Worth mentioning

For these places, I didn’t have a strong positive opinion, but I liked them enough that I’d come back to them usually because of convenience. Some of them I’d need to go back to before I consider bumping them up on the list.

Pancita - Quality has slipped while prices have climbed. The albacore tuna tostadas are still the standout, with the brisket suadero tacos close behind. The duck in fig mole ($48) was fine but not memorable, and definitely not worth a repeat even if it was half the price. Rice and beans ($19 total) were meager and unremarkable. Desserts and agua fresca are best skipped altogether, but this was true before too. Service felt awkward even though the place wasn’t busy, and the oddly designed tables make for a strange setup, avoid those if you can. No longer a strong recommendation (was formerly a 3 star).

Sunflower Garden - Tried the general tso's lunch special. Hearty serving that'd feed two. Pretty good, wish it was spicier. Really sweet people that run the place. No seating inside or nearby so you'll have to eat in the car. The wontons in chili oil are okay.

Caravan Halal Central Asian Fusion (formerly Fitchi house) - Try the lagman noodles. The vegetable samosa thing wasn't worth getting again. The beef samsa was good, wish it had more filling. Got the lamb stir fry entree which I found a bit dry.

Aroy Mak - Their chicken dishes are the move: tender, juicy, and seasoned like they actually care, whether grilled or fried. The curries are reliably rich and balanced with just enough heat, the kind you finish without realizing you’re halfway through. Portions are big, everything comes out fast, and the whole place feels dialed without trying too hard.

Athena's Enumclaw - Ideal if you’re coming back from Crystal Mountain. Friendly couple. Order ahead as soon as you get service on the road; it can take a while. Traditional gyro is good. Leah enjoyed the garlic chicken gyro. I hear the greek street tacos are good too. Zucchini fries are decent, especially if you're splitting.

Shark Bite Ceviches - Friendly guy. Had the Halibut ceviche and thought it was a great deal. Would try again. Outdoor seating only.

Cafe Suliman - Came here with Ted before a show at Paramount. Suli (owner) is really friendly and I just had him pick items for us. The restaurant is situated in a "nice" food court of sorts. I remember having the tuna butter on toast which was nice, and the squash dip with salsa macha. The grilled cabbage was also given. None if it was particularly impressive, so not in a rush to come back. I wouldn’t be upset if a friend suggested meeting up here though.

Gyro Boss - In Third Place Books. Baklava can be skipped. Didn’t taste fresh. The lamb and beef gyro platter was decent. Falafel was solid. Salad with the platter was very good. Fries were superb. Pretty good spot for after mountain biking St Ed’s.

Floret - By Cafe Flora (airport) - Probably the best meal in the airport. Servers are always really nice. Go-to now is the crispy tofu sandwich because I got bored of the black bean burger, another solid option. Yam fries are always something to look forward to here.

SheChill Patisserie - What a stupid name, but the pastries are good. Would be happy if this was in my neighborhood. Great stop if you’re biking in Woodinville.

T55 Patisserie - Expect a line. I once waited about 40 minutes because I had nothing better to do. Run by a Singaporean pastry chef with an impressive background, and the pastries show a lot of technique. Even the head chef of Canlis is a fan. I didn’t care for the Curry Crab Scone, but the Peach and Brie financier was a standout. The brown butter almond cake has a crunchy top and a creamy center that works beautifully with the peach and brie. The Lemon Matcha Choux was bright and layered with lemon curd, matcha mousse, and vanilla caramel. The Cinnamon Babka croissant loaf felt too decadent for me. Unfortunately, they stopped making the Pain au Chocolat in 2024, which was one of the most impressive and unique pastries I’ve had in my life. They suggested the very chocolate cookie instead, which leaned more cake-like and wasn’t something I enjoyed.

Pike Place Chowder - Had a sample of their chowder on a work-sponsored tasting tour of the market. I don’t care much for chowder, but I would’ve had a full bowl of this stuff. The many awards tacked to the wall are well-earned.

Seven Coffee Roasters Market & Cafe - Small shop that feels like it hasn’t changed in decades. It’s a perfect neighborhood cafe. A great morning would be grabbing a day-old discounted pastry, a coffee, and strolling Ravenna Park nearby.

Corson Building - Came here for our third anniversary and the setting was the highlight. We started in the garden on a warm September evening, then moved inside once the mosquitos got too annoying. The interior is just as charming, so it is worth visiting year round. Service moves slowly by design and our dinner stretched to about three hours, so an early reservation helped. The neighborhood can feel a bit sketchy, so parking close is ideal. Also, the servers are strikingly handsome. Drinks were solid. The peach margarita was done well. The plum house soda was the better of the two, with a great mouthfeel. Food was mixed. Ben's bread with zucchini and eggplant babaganoush was a favorite and a great way to start. The tomato, grilled peach, and dandelion greens plate was good, but the portion of peach felt skimpy. The ricotta dumplings with lobster mushrooms were fine but not something I would repeat. The tomatillo chicken with poblano cream was cooked nicely but leaned a bit plain. Desserts landed at opposite ends. The almond cake was excellent and worth ordering twice. The huckleberry ice cream had frozen huckleberries that were unpleasant to bite into. Overall, the setting is wonderful and the food is good but uneven. It works well for a special occasion, though I probably would not return.

Uneeda Burger - Worth considering for a quality burger. Had the lamb burger, which was remarkable for the lemon curd. Really good bun too. Pricey, but it's a burger that tries to do more and does a good job. Also had the sweet potato fries. Good place to hang out. There's outdoor space, semi-outdoors, and indoors. Apparently used to be a car and boat repair shop and they kept the old signage.

DeLaurenti’s Food & Wine - The $4-5 slice of square pie isn’t amazing but may be the best deal in the area. Also, they were the only shop in the city that sold Taggiasca olives which I needed for a recipe. If you don’t like olives, you should try these.

Cornelly - Came here with Lushen and Ted and waited about 45 minutes on a rainy Saturday. Parking was tough, but there is a connected bar where you can pass the time. The pizzas everyone talks about ended up being the biggest letdown of the year for me. The dough was thicker than I expected and leaned cracker-like, without much flavor. I even skipped the crust, which is unusual for me. We tried the hornet honey and the cherry bomb. The cherry bomb was a miss, with pickled onions and sausage on a white base that never came together. The hornet honey had pepperoni, hot honey, and pineapple. It tasted fine but nothing special for the price or hype. The broccolini appetizer was the clear winner. It was beautifully charred and served with a creamy cured egg yolk sauce that worked really well. I’ve heard good things about their pasta, so I’m not ready to write them off completely, but the pizzas were disappointing.

There are lots of places I’ve eaten at that didn’t make it to this list. Those are always disappointing because I feel like I wasted a meal. Leave a comment if you think I should check out a spot in 2026.

Also if you think we’d get along, shoot me a message and you can help me eat at more places.

Dolomites, Slovenia, Lake Garda cycling and mountain biking trip - trip notes

I finally made it out to the Dolomites on a solo trip with a bike. Along the way, I also spent time in Slovenia and Lake Garda. This post captures what I did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Sat, August 23 - Land in Milan

  • Landed in Milan at 2:30pm from Seattle, with a transfer in Iceland. Got some euros at the airport.

  • Activated my Airalo sim (code: RAJA8345 for a $3 off code). Since I’d be crossing international borders, I got one that’d cover all of Europe. It worked poorly in Italy where I’d spend most of my time. Instead, I should’ve gotten one for each country when I was there even though it would’ve cost more.

  • Took the airport shuttle a few minutes away to stay at Malpensa Garden. Very simple, great value. I wouldn’t be able to explore Milan, but I had sleep to catch up on and being this far from the city meant I’d have ample space outside to assemble a bike. Lugging around a bike bag in the city would have been a hassle.

  • The only place to eat dinner was Samarcanda. Believe the reviews when they tell you to line up 15 minutes before they open if you want a seat. Good food, no regrets.

Sun, August 24 - Drive to the Dolomites

  • Returned to the airport at 9am for a car rental pickup at Sixt, which had the best prices and selection. Loaded up the car with my disassembled bike. I left my collapsible bike bag with my lodging hosts for 20 euros for two weeks.

  • The first few hours were boring, but once I pointed north the mountains became more dramatic. Stopped for 2pm lunch at Pizzeria La Talpa in Trento. It was definitely a top 10 pizza, and I wasn’t expecting something so incredible.

  • Stopped by the Interspar in Bolzano to get some snacks for the week and other goods before heading east into the Dolomites.

  • The scenery was unbelievable and fortunately I was able to drive slowly to admire it, since the road had cyclists pedaling hard up the winding mountain roads.

  • I parked the car in Arabba and my host came by. We loaded up my bike and everything I’d need for the week into his truck, and he drove up a dirt road above town.

  • I’d be staying in a single room at a cabin called Rifugio Plan Boe. It was an amazing deal for the week and I’d be right on the trails. I’d have dinner every night at the rifugio.

Mon, August 25 - Sellaronda (CW) mountain biking

  • The weather was spectacular and I got on my bike at 8:30am. The plan was to ride the Sellaronda mountain biking loop going clockwise (classic route). I was starting the day right on trail.

  • I rode down to Arabba and got my first lift of the day, which would take me to Porta Vescovo. I purchased an all-day lift pass.

  • The trail is generally easy to follow, but sometimes can be a challenge. Be sure to ask for a paper map, and don’t assume that you can follow any rider since not everyone is doing the whole loop. Also download trailforks offline.

  • I made a friend on the lift, a German guy named Paul. We had a blast riding together.

  • The scenery is stunning. Try and remember where you are on the map and ask yourself what your favorite views were so it doesn’t all feel like a blur.

  • I asked my host where he’d recommend for lunch along the route. He responded “Dantercepies Mountain Lounge or ⁠Baita Pra Valentini. But, it’s hard to find bad places or eat poorly along the route.” We ended up at Dantercepies and had an awesome view with our meal.

  • The last quarter of the loop has the most elevation gain. Paul’s chain was threatening to break so he walked up much of it.

  • I returned back to the lodge at 4:30pm, just in time to shower and dial into work remotely with a view of the cliffs.

  • My total ride stats (not including going up the lifts) were 29mi, 2,200ft ascent, 12,400ft descent. I was on a hardtail Canyon Exceed CF7, and I cleared everything well. I would’ve had more fun on a full suspension that wasn’t a light racing bike, but I needed something that could perform well for road biking as well.

Tues, August 26 - Cycling Passo Falzarego & Passo Giau

  • I drove from Arabba to the small village of Andraz, where I parked and began my road cycling. I headed towards Passo Falzarego (route line). The cycling was easy enough and I even passed a road cyclist. Cars were generous with space and reasonable with speed.

  • The descent was glorious and I was excited for Passo Giau which I knew to be even more scenic. Unfortunately, the sun was out and it felt like the grade of the road increased. I had to stop and catch my breath a few times. I’d later learn that nearly everyone was doing this loop in the opposite direction.

  • After what was decidedly the hardest bike ride of my life (remember, I’m on a mountain bike), I made it to Passo Giau. It was unlike any other mountain pass I’d ever been to.

  • I was so happy that I had three lemon sodas at lunch. There was still more climbing to do after the descent, but the two big passes were behind me.

  • The total ride was 3hr42min (moving time), 33mi, 6,000ft of climbing.

  • After the ride, I had just enough time to drive over to Passo Falzarego and take the cable car up. It was surreal to be in such an alpine environment and see paved paths and even a sauna.

  • I made it back to the cabin at 6pm and started remote work again.

Wed, August 27 - Viel dal Pan hike

  • Instead of breakfast at the cabin, I decided to hike the trail down to the town of Arabba and catch the first lift up to Porta Vescovo. This was the same lift I took two days ago for the Sellaronda CW loop. I was the only person at the super-modern Rifugio Luigi Gorza and I took my time over pastries and sandwiches while the fog lifted from the valley floor.

  • I began the Viel dal Pan hike, a very easy trail that follows a contour line. These trails are common in the area and are referred to as “balcony hikes.” I had a panoramic view of the dying Marmolada glacier and several peaks. When I reached the halfway point to Passo Pordoi, I noticed a glut of more hikers. All of them were headed in the opposite direction. If I had seen this many people on the trail, I wouldn’t have enjoyed my morning as much.

  • Once at Passo Pordoi, I took the Fodom gondola down and hiked for a few miles on flat trail to Arabba and had lunch at Malita Ristorante. The waiter was super friendly once he realized I could chat in Italian and they had unusually good wifi. Got back in time to do remote work again.

Thur, August 28 - Rest day

  • It rained all day. While I wouldn’t have voluntarily taken a rest day, I was happy to take it easy in the cabin all day.

Fri, August 29 - Cascades de Pisciadu hike

  • The forecast called for on and off rain again, but my host encouraged me to go outside anyway. I realized that after the heavy rainfall from yesterday, going to a waterfall would probably be a great idea.

  • I drove over to Corvara in Alta Badia, in the northeast corner of the Piz Boè massif. It was far more developed than Arabba and I grabbed a decent plate of pasta.

  • I felt lazy taking the Borest gondola up the short distance from town, but this would end up being a great idea later. Once I got off the lift, I walked the flat path to the Cascades de Pisciadu. I hung out for a while, amazed at how many lifts there were all around me. The Dolomites would be a great place to bring kids someday.

  • Just as I was starting to head back, the rain started again. I didn’t mind having the lift to limit my time getting soaked.

  • Back at the cabin, my host made me a Pinsa Romana (Roman-style pizza) for dinner and it was superb while I did more remote work while it rained again.

Sat, August 30 - Rifugio Franz Kostner hike

  • My host suggested I head up from the cabin into the mountains, and it didn’t seem like it’d rain for a few hours. With just a rain shell and my phone, I followed a trail uphill. I kept going until I reached Rifugio Franz Kostner.

  • This is a hut now managed by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), and they pull a great espresso shot. It’s about a five-minute walk from a lift so it’s the closest thing to a wild cabin you’ll find in the Dolomites.

  • It’s a lively and cozy space indoors, filled with history. I took the lift down and hiked around some more before catching another set of lifts that dropped me onto a path back to the cabin..

  • In total, I hiked 5.25mi, 2500ft ascent, and almost the same amount of descent despite the lifts. This would be my last night in the Dolomites for the trip.

Sun, August 31 - Sellaronda (CCW) mountain biking

  • I woke up early to get a start on today’s ride. I’d be attempting the Sellaronda loop counter-clockwise. This approach was also lift-serviced but it’d involve three times more climbing and seemed somewhat contrived. I had a light hardtail bike and I figured if there was any bike capable of doing it, I had it.

  • The loop starts with a descent and then climbs a road. It was too early for the sun to peek over the mountains, and I kept pedaling up to keep warm. For a long while, I was wondering whether this was a good idea.

  • Finally, I got onto some singletrack and enjoyed my descent. For the rest of the day, I felt as if the CCW route (the “green” route) was contrived. There were moments of joy, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it unless you had an ebike. Even if you did, you’d have more fun on the classic CW route (the “orange” route).

  • I got back to my car in Arabba extremely exhausted. I could have taken a shortcut and taken the road on the way back, but I opted to do the trail in its entirety. Total ride stats: 33.5mi, 3000ft up, 12700ft descent.

  • Once I was done, I had a quick lunch and loaded up the car. Today was supposed to be just a day of driving without riding, but because the last two days had been rainy and I was curious to cross off the CCW route I squeezed it in.

  • I left the Dolomites and headed east, crossing into Austria for a few nights in Villach.

Mon, September 1 - Mangart Saddle cycling

  • As much as I would’ve enjoyed a rest day after the riding and the driving, I woke up early to head south into Slovenia with my bike. There were thunderstorm warnings, but this would be an out-and-back. I’d cycle as high up the road as I could manage before my legs gave up and then I could just turn around.

  • The drive into Slovenia was spectacular, and I immediately wished I had chosen to stay here instead. It was far wilder and steeper than the Dolomites. Even with the thick clouds obscuring the peaks, or perhaps because of that, I was in constant awe at the dramatic rise of the slopes around me.

  • The goal would be to pedal all the way up to Mangart Saddle, the highest road in the country. I opted to start in the town of Bovec, even though I could have shaved off some elevation and distance by starting closer.

  • The roads were the steepest I’d ever ridden and I certainly wasn’t on the ideal bike for it. I was moving slowly, but told myself I would turn around before I’d walk my bike. I was 1,400ft from the top when I decided to turn around. From where I could see, the top was clouded over and I just wasn’t in the mood for more pedaling. I turned my bike around, questioning whether I was making the right decision. I was tired, sure, but I had more gas left in the tank. Ultimately, all my regrets left me when I was flying downhill at incredible speeds. Total ride stats: 26.6mi, 4100ft ascent.

  • My short time in Slovenia convinced me that I should come back with more time.

Tues, September 2 - drive to Lake Garda

  • Today would be an easy day, just driving through the rain to Caprino Veronese. It’s a town to the east of Italy’s Lake Garda. Rather than get lodging by the lake, I opted to be up in the hills staying at an Airbnb situated on a bee farm.

  • I’d have dinner for tonight and tomorrow at Doppio Zero, a pizzeria which made me feel great about avoiding the very touristy lakeside.

Wed, September 3 - cycling around Lake Garda

  • I drove to Torri del Benaco on the eastern shore of Lake Garda and started my CW loop of Italy’s largest lake.

  • The southern part of the lake was easily my least favorite. It was the most developed and much of the lake shore was privatized. I tucked inland and it really only improved after my first stop, which was gelato at Gelateria Ciocolat.

  • Heading north along the western side of the lake I spent a lot of time in long and dark tunnels. There were some absolutely gorgeous sections of bike path that jutted out over the water though. There’s an initiative to make the entirety of the lake as bike friendly as this, but it seems like that will take a while.

  • At Limone sul Garda, I stopped by for a granita and limonata at a small cart along the path. I also considered staying in this town but it was a bit too out of the way.

  • My favorite moment of the ride would be the pizza I had at the northernmost point of the lake at Riva del Garda. While clearly catering to tourists, the town felt much more like it was lived in by locals. I had an amazing pinsa at Pizzeria Basilico. It was so good that I decided to have another one even though it meant I wouldn’t make it back in time for a work meeting.

  • The rest of the ride was flat and I had a great view of the sunset. I stopped at a restaurant along the lake for an hour and a half of work meetings that I took from my phone. I accidentally said “Grazie” to my waiter while I was unmuted and someone asked if I was in Italy.

  • I made it back to the car just as it got dark. I had another excellent celebratory gelato at Gelateria La Limonaia. Total ride stats: 95.5mi, 4600ft.

Thur, September 4 - drive to Milan

  • I drove the short distance into Milan, and the closer I got to the city the more stressful the driving was. Lunch was at Casottel, a very traditional homestyle restaurant on the edge of the city. I got the ossobuco, on a bed of saffron risotto (risotto alla milanese). I’d go back for the rustic vibe.

  • My airbnb was a simple room just steps from the Gambara metro station, which made it convenient for getting into the core of the city. I parked my car and was glad to not use it again for a while.

  • My first stop was to get a haircut at Lucky, a barbershop that was very obsessed with Brooklyn, the Chicago Bulls, and classic hip hop. I didn’t know enough Italian to ask for exactly what I wanted, and I was curious to let him just do whatever he wanted. I was happy with the result and treated myself to gelato at Gelateria LAB.

  • I walked over to a second lunch at one of the Via Pastiera locations. It’s very tourist friendly, but the quality of pasta was excellent. Not cheap.

  • I worked remotely starting at 5pm and didn’t leave until after 10pm when I stopped at a neighborhood trattoria, Megik Land, for some orecchiette.

Fri, September 5 - Milan

  • I had breakfast at Loste Café, a trendy shop with quality coffee and even more impressive pastries. It seemed all the cool, stylish tourists and locals were gathering here to wait in line. I’d definitely come back.

  • I walked over to the Duomo, and grabbed a sandwich at Cesarino. It’s very much a spot geared towards tourists, but my #17 mortadella with truffle sauce was delicious. Instant favorite. They make a great spremuta d’arancia. It’s a relatively affordable meal as well.

  • I wandered into Uniqlo since I had run out of clean clothes, then walked around the Brera neighborhood. I signed up for a 1pm spin class at Gyru Cycling Studio, hoping to hear some Italian and also get a workout. Unfortunately, it was one of those dance-y spin classes and the Spanish instructor was speaking in English.

  • Right after the workout, I went to Ciacco, which I can say has some of the best gelato I’ve ever had. The flavor to get is the crema della bretagna (vanilla bourbon and salted butter). If I lived in Milan, I would come here once a week.

  • I walked around some more and had dinner at Osteria dell’Acquabella. It seemed like an old neighborhood restaurant and I was keen to try the cotoletta alla milanese, a breaded veal cutlet pan-fried in clarified butter. I most enjoyed trying the risotto al salto, another traditional Milanese dish made from leftover, cold risotto that is pan-fried into a crispy, golden-brown patty.

Sat, September 6 - Milan

  • I started my final day in Milan at an espresso bar, all of which have been great during the trip. I walked around randomly until I found myself at Saya Pizza. It was decent, but it reminded me of the trendy pizza spots in NYC in both taste and vibe. I thought about the rise of a monocultural society.

  • I walked around some more and had gelato at Pavé, which I didn’t like very much.

  • After loading up the car, I headed back to Malpensa Garden, unloaded my things and drove to the airport to return my rental.

  • I had a final dinner at Samarcanda.

Sun, September 7 - flying home

  • It was an uneventful flight back home, besides the physical challenge of trying to get a bike bag, a 120L duffel and a large backpack onto a crowded airport shuttle.

Kauai and Maui - trip notes

I finally made it out to Hawaii, something that I thought I’d do more often now that I live on the West coast. Leah and her mom were with me for four days in Kauai and nine days on Maui. This post captures what we did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Fri, Dec 20

  • Landed in Kauai from Seattle at 9:30pm. Turo shuttle picks us up. It’s an 8min drive to the Turo lot. Have cash for a tip.

  • Not much open for dinner, so we drive to Domino’s and are very happy to be here. The Safeway nearby is open 24hrs so we stock up.

  • We drive north to Moloa'a Beach where we’ve got an Airbnb.

Sat, Dec 21

  • We start the day by walking to Moloa’a Beach, which is nice to explore before the crowds arrive.

  • We drive back south towards the airport. We checked out the Kauai Community Market. Lise got some fruit (rambutan, Hawaiian oranges, and some others). She ended up loving the rambutan and couldn’t find it for the rest of the trip.

  • We drove over to Kaua’i Sushi Station for lunch. Lots of chickens running around beneath our feet. The sushi is pretty decent for a truck, don’t expect to be blown away. Lots of flies buzzing around though.

  • We drove over to Waikomo Shave Ice, which I was drawn to because they natural syrup, fresh fruit topping, and local honey. The owner, also named Leah, was friendly. This ended up being Leah and Lise’s favorite spot from the entire trip.

  • Waikomo Shave Ice is connected to Warehouse 3540, a makerspace with some small shops in a cool setting. I got bored pretty quickly while the girls shopped. The bathroom inside is convenient.

  • We drove over to Koloa for Kauai Juice Co, which had a very polished LA vibe. They make a range of hot sauces and there are testers you can sample. Walked around the town which was nice. Sat in the plaza area next to The Fresh Shave where I was tempted to get another shave ice out of boredom as the ladies did more shopping. Grabbed snack bars for later at Hoku Foods Natural Market.

  • We drove over to Kuilau Ridge Trailhead. There was space for two or three cars to park, but we were the only car there. Maybe we were supposed to park at Keahua Stream Bridge just around the bend. It’s a quiet trail that’s easy enough to do in Tevas but trail sneakers would be more comfortable. I’m not sure how far we went (I didn’t record), but we went at least 1.5-2 miles in. Very shaded and moderately humid. Kid-friendly for sure.

  • Got to JO2 Natural Cuisine for a 5:45pm reservation. This ended up being the best dinner of the entire trip. If you arrive before 6pm, you can get the three-course meal for $45.

  • Despite already having dessert with dinner, we stopped in to Wailua Shave Ice on the way home. This was everyone’s second favorite. I thought it was the most interesting, given the textural element.

Sun, Dec 22

  • Left home early to get to Waipa Park and Ride for a reserved shuttle. Shuttles run very often and there’s usually space to get on an earlier bus if you show up a little earlier. We got the 7:40am. The sunrise drive has spectacular scenery.

  • Hiked to Hanakāpīʻai Falls. Total mileage was 8.25mi (2,200ft ele). The trail is sometimes slippery and it’d be easy to roll an ankle. We didn’t bring trekking poles but I’d have loved them for the stream crossings. I saw one guy stupidly try jumping onto a wet polished slab and almost crack his skull by falling backwards. Trail shoes definitely recommended. Leah hiked fast to get past the slow people who had 7am or earlier shuttles. We had a great moment admiring the waterfall, watching some people swim (was very cold and not sunny in that valley). On the way back, most slow groups understood to let us pass, but others seemed to try and move faster.

  • Got back to the car and stopped in to Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market for some excellent poke in the late afternoon. No place to sit, but there are rocks by the nearby stream where you can watch some kayakers. Went to Wishing Well Shave Ice (also in Hanalei) and it was decent. I’d do it again if I was in the area.

  • Would’ve loved to see more of Hanalei but headed back home. Left for dinner in the Grand Hyatt Resort at Tidepools. Made a reservation just before sunset, so we could walk the grounds. It’s all very beautiful, but know that the path along the beach is open to the public, not just the hotel guests and restaurant diners. The dinner was pretty meh, especially given the exorbitant cost. Very surprised anyone recommends this. I felt like an idiot for bringing others this spot.

Mon, Dec 23

  • Left very early and drove up to Waimea Canyon. The change in scenery is dramatic, going from lush and green to dry and red very quickly.

  • On the way over, we grabbed lunch at Konohiki Seafoods. The poke was very good. Figure out what you want before you’re up because they’re not going to be too patient. There’s a long line to get through. There won’t be space to sit, so we sat on some rocks by the Hanama’ulu sign across the street.

  • Went up as far as the road allowed, which was Kalalau Lookout. Bring binoculars to appreciate how the details of the Nā Pali Coast. We set off on foot to walk the remaining 1 mile on the paved (but closed) road to the Pu’u O Kila Lookout. It’s a pleasant walk, especially if you time it so that everyone is heading back. On the drive back to town, we stopped at all of the lookouts. Since it was the last hour before sunset, we had these views to ourselves.

  • Got to Japanese Grandma's Cafe in Hanapepe for a 6:45pm dinner. Lovely backyard setting with live music playing. The food is good, but the vibe is excellent. I’d come back here regularly if I lived in the area.

Tues, Dec 24

  • We start the day again by taking a dip at Moloa’a Beach.

  • We get a late start and get poke for lunch at Pono Market, which was very good. I wish I could’ve eaten more. Just two doors down you’ll find a lot with some food trucks and picnic tables to sit at.

  • On the drive back home we stop at Kalalea Juice Hale. The roadside setting is spectacular.

  • Leah and I spend the hour before sunset at a beach that I loved. It had far less plastic trash on it. I won’t mention the name unless you ask me in person.

Notes on Kauai

  • It only rained briefly maybe once a day, except for one day where it poured hard for an hour or two straight. The air often smelled sweet and fragrant. We never ran the air-conditioner as the fan was more than enough.

  • It was rough to be woken up by roosters as early as 4am.

  • It gets chilly at night, especially if there’s a breeze coming through or you go to dinner somewhere air-conditioned. Pack a small layer even if you don’t think you need it.

  • We wanted to explore as much of the island as possible, so we know where we’d want to stay for our next visit. This meant a lot of driving and the island isn’t easy to drive.

  • We had no issues with bugs.

  • I did like where we stayed near Moloa’a Beach. I think I’d stay anywhere on the island next time except Lihue (busier) or the Poipu resorts. If I were to try and have it all, I’d split my time between Anahola and Hanapepe.

  • We did not go snorkeling because the snorkel report (published daily) wasn’t good.

Wed, Dec 25

  • We land in Maui at 11am, pick up our Turo (a Toyota Tacoma), and head straight to Safeway (open on Christmas) for lunch. I had some very mediocre poke here, but I was grateful to the employees for working on the holiday.

  • The Tacoma would end up being the perfect vehicle for this island given our activities.

  • We’re staying at a friend’s place in Pukalani, located at a cooler higher elevation in what’s called Upcountry. Just before sunset, we went for a walk on Thompson Road. It’s a paved one lane road with views of rolling hills and lava rock walls denoting property lines. You’ll get a peek at Oprah’s estate up on the left.

  • Although some spots are open for dinner, none of it looks good so we just eat groceries from Safeway.

Thur, Dec 26

  • Leah and I head to Ukumehame Beach for the first of five surf lessons with Zack Howard.

  • Right after the lesson we drive a short distance to Olowalu mile marker 14 where the snorkeling report says it’ll be good. We check out some marine life and head to Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop. Everyone in the long line was wishing they had cell signal so they could order for pickup and not have to wait. I make a note to do that next time. There’s a convenient bathroom in the restaurant. We skip the famous pies and just get a salad and hot dog.

  • On the way back home, I grab a late lunch at Tin Roof Maui. The seating is some small chairs that are baking in the parking lot. This is another spot I wish I ordered for online in advance. The move here is the mochiko chicken with the spicy noodles. There’s a substantial amount here and I’d recommend splitting it with someone.

  • Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice - Kahului is nearby so we walk over. The line is unbearable in the hot sun, but it’s worth it. Just know that it does not move fast here. The texture of their ice soaked in the syrup is the best I’ve had. So smooth, almost like a sorbet.

  • We head in to Pa’ia where we shop around for some surfing equipment. The shops all close at 6pm. For dinner we’re lined up at Paia Fish Market Restaurant. There’s going to be a wait, so you’ll have plenty of time to figure out what you want. This is probably the best dollar for quality meal we had on the trip. I’d repeat.

Fri, Dec 27

  • Another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard. Conditions are absolutely perfect. This is where beginners surf, at least this time of year. A photographer on the beach snapped some pics of us and we happily pay him $35 each for the memory.

  • We drive to Kihei with the intention of snorkeling given the snorkel report. Lise and Leah note that this stretch feels a bit more like Florida, not in a good way. We don’t snorkel.

  • Lunch is at Kitoko in South Maui Gardens. I liked being there. It feels like a nice food truck park. Kitoko was excellent. There’ll probably be a musician playing something. If you see an older, long-haired guy named Armadillo playing music, you should ask him how he ended up on the island. It’s a fun story.

  • I grab dinner from Pukalani Superette. Their selection was limited unfortunately at that hour. I’d like to go back during lunch. Had some mediocre poke. The shop is worth checking out for the selection of other goods they’ve got.

Sat, Dec 28

  • We head to the Upcountry Farmer’s Market early in the morning. We were repeatedly warned that it’s a madhouse if you don’t get there very early.

    • I had breakfast at the Indian food truck, which was recommended to me. I wouldn’t recommend it. The owner did warn me that it’s not going to be heavy and creamy, and that she uses olive oil instead of ghee. That should’ve been a red flag. It tasted like the kind of Indian food you’d get at a yoga retreat. It was satisfying, just boring.

    • I grabbed two bottles of kombucha from Maui Jun. She had some good flavors, intending to replicate soda pop flavors. Rather than use sugar, she uses local honey.

    • My favorite stop was Hi Spice. I sampled about 10 bottles and had a good chat with the dude. At 4 bottles for $30 it was a steal. I now regret not buying a second case.

    • We stopped at Crema Maui, which was in a converted trolley.

  • We had another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.

  • We snorkeled at Oluwalu mile marker 14 again. This is where the conditions were again reported to be best. We saw a monk seal in the water playing with a diver flag for several minutes.

  • We grabbed lunch at Sam Sato’s, a very old school Japanese diner. I loved the vibe here. The famous dry noodles are pretty light on flavor, but I’d go back. It was really cheap and had a local vibe, felt like you were eating food your buddy made. I also got the turnovers (manju was sold out), miso soup, and beef stick (incredible, get two).

  • We went out for dinner at Ocean Vodka. They have a beautiful, grassy open space with picnic tables (reservation only), a panoramic view of the sunset, and really good live music. If you don’t have a reservation, you can just grab some Adirondak chairs and seat yourself wherever. It’s great for people-watching. Just know that it gets very breezy, so you’ll want to be prepared for throwing on warm layers. The food is of the quality you’d get at a mid-sized American airport (not bad, not great), but remember you’re here for the vibe.

Sun, Dec 29

  • We had another morning surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.

  • I grabbed poke for lunch at Foodland in Pukalani. It was amazing and might be my favorite of the entire trip. The guy at the counter was really friendly and let me sample as many as I wanted.

  • We went up to Kula Botanical Garden. It’s in a beautiful setting and at $15 it’s a lot of fun. I had enough service to ask ChatGPT to identify the plants and flowers without labels. I also was reading aloud stories about the Hawaiian gods.

  • We checked out Makawao, a former paniolo/cowboy town that now has boutique shopping. After walking around, we ended up at Little Tibet. Even if you have no interest in jewelry, Jacques has some cool stories. Ask him if he remembers the guy who bought his last turquoise bracelet.

  • We headed back to Kihei to pick up bikes that we’d be renting tomorrow from Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. I’d highly recommend them. Very affordable for a quality road bike. Just reserve in advance. We stocked up on cycling snacks here.

  • We grabbed early dinner at Coconut's Fish Cafe. They’re known for their fish tacos (not like Tijuana-style) but I got their fish and chips which I loved. This was another one of the better value meals. Would repeat.

Mon, Dec 30

  • We woke up at 5am to do a bike loop of West Maui. We started out at Foodland at around 7am and finished at around 2:30am. We went clockwise, which was against the wind for much of the ride although it felt safest to be on the inside.

    • The first flat 20 miles until Lahaina went quickly. Biking through Lahaina was extremely sobering. We stopped at Napili Market (mile 30) for lunch. I had the best and cheapest bowl of poke here I think. An entire bowl of poke in the middle of a bike ride isn’t an optimal choice, but I’d happily do it again.

    • We passed by Honolua Bay, but didn’t have enough time to really check out the surfers from the lookout point. I wish we did.

    • At mile 43 there’s a super steep section. It’s a hamstring burner. The views get incredible on the north coast. There will be stands for banana bread and cookies but I’m allergic to bananas and buying an entire loaf seemed like a bad idea.

    • Very soon the road becomes rougher and has some blind turns. Take these turns carefully as the locals will whip around the bends sometimes. It’s another reason why going clockwise felt safer (you won’t get bumped off the cliff edge). Some sections are one lane only and at times you may be faster than the cars since the bike is more nimble.

  • We dropped off the bikes before 4pm at Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. Grabbed late lunch at one of the food trucks at South Maui Gardens.

Tues, Dec 31

  • We had our final surf lesson. Ukumehame Beach was flat, so we headed over to Pa’ia Bay, where the waves were 3-4 feet. It’s a beautiful beach for hanging out in.

  • We got Waikomo Shave Ice in Pa’ia since we loved the Kauai location so much.

  • I picked up lunch from Keith at Only Ono BBQ. I had to text him what I wanted two days before since he’s only open once a week. He’s a cool dude and he makes the best chinese bbq pork I’ve ever tasted. He has plans to open a restaurant very soon.

  • We left home to drive to I’ao Valley. You’ll want to get a reservation beforehand. We had just enough cell service at the entrance to pay for admission on my phone. It’s an incredible setting. The hike is short and you can do it in crocs. Being there at sunset was nice because we were the last people in the area.

  • We had dinner at Balai Pata. Everything was great, but the malungay garlic noodles were incredible. I wouldn’t mind skipping the lumpia though.

  • Driving home we could see fireworks in all directions. Depending on where you’re staying on NYE, expect your neighbors to be setting them off. I slept with headphones on.

Wed, Jan 1

  • We figured doing the famous Road to Hana drive on a holiday when some folks would be flying home was a good idea. I think it was.

    • We started driving at 6am. The sunrise was beautiful. We had the GuideAlong audio tour, which was synced to our GPS location. I can’t recommend it enough.

    • We arrived to Wai’anapanapa State Park by 9am. I reserved a 7-10am time slot in advance. This is where you’ll find the black sand beaches. It seemed like camping was possible, which is something I’d look into later. The beach is small and fills up quickly.

    • We drove straight to the Ohe’o Gulch and Pipiwai Bamboo Trail parking lot after that. Be sure to pack your NPS pass if you’ve got one. The hike is a scenic 4mi round trip which I liked. The viewing area for the waterfall is very small, so it’ll get crowded unless you show up early.

    • I was hoping to try some of the Huli Huli chicken but it was closed. We did get some phenomenal juice at a truck in Hana though.

    • We drove through Ke’anae Peninsula which was wonderful, and we made a stop at Honomanu Beach, which was a rockier black sand beach in a beautiful setting.

    • Expect it to rain in the afternoon when you’re in Hana.

    • We stopped at a few small viewpoints that the audio tour recommended, but we would’ve loved to check out the Arboretum, Hamoa Beach, and others.

    • The driving is tough and often very tense. The locals drive fast and some tourists are inspired to do the same. Pack extra phone batteries, water, and snacks.

  • We had dinner reserved at Hali'imaile General Store. It was a nice setting, but felt very fake and the food was just okay. I wasn’t upset I went there, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Expect a mix of people in sweatpants/shorts and people dressed up very handsomely.

Thur, Jan 2

  • We flew out. I had enough time to get lunch at Tin Roof one last time.

Notes on Maui

  • I liked staying in Upcountry. If I were to do it again, I’d split time between Hana and Upcountry.

  • There was so much we didn’t have time to do in Maui. I’d happily come back many times.

2024 video recap - 1 second everyday

At the start of this year, I began recording a second of video every day (using 1SE). I’ve done this twice before in my mid-20s, and each time I’ve become more grateful for the effort. In the short term, these clips remind me of what I’ve accomplished and how my family and friends bring so much meaning to my life. In the long term, they act as a time capsule, capturing the perspective of a younger version of myself. This is a lot to write, but I’m assuming I’ll be very happy to have these moments bottled up when I’m older.

Here’s what my 2024 looked like:

What I’ll remember about 2024

  • Mountain biking improvements - This year marked big progress on the bike. I’m still not at my friends’ level, but watching clips from earlier in the year reminds me how far I’ve come. Credit goes to lessons with Fluidride and pushing myself outside my comfort zone.

  • ACL Rehab and setbacks - Recovering from an ACL tear went exceptionally well, though a severe groin strain mid-year set me back. I got through it with rehab, but being less disciplined probably prolonged the recovery. It’s a reminder that consistency pays off.

  • Memorable vacations - This was my first year traveling with Leah and her mom, with trips to Puerto Vallarta, San Diego, and Hawaii. Each trip brought its own unique experiences, from incredible dinners to exploring new places together.

  • Adventures with friends - Patrick was a constant partner for outdoor adventures—climbing at Red Rock, biking at Darrington and Index, and more. Friends visiting Seattle made for great memories too, like the long Lake Washington loop with Tom and Greg that turned into a tour of ice cream spots.

  • Cycling adventures - My bike took me to amazing places: Washington Pass before cars reopened, the San Juan Islands, the Olympic Adventure Trail, and Obstruction Point. Whether with friends or solo, these rides were meditative and fulfilling.

  • Exploring Seattle - Injuries kept me from the outdoors at times, but exploring the city filled that gap. I enjoyed the Seattle Aquarium’s new wing, long walks with Leah, and spots like the conservatory gardens.

  • Ski touring - Ski touring stood out as the most memorable part of skiing. From a perfect day at Mt. St. Helens to incredible snow at Camp Muir, every outing reminded me why I love being in the mountains.

  • Changing my wardrobe - After a decade of relying on gym clothes, I overhauled my closet at the end of last year. I donated my old wardrobe to relatives in Bangladesh and thoughtfully rebuilt it with things I liked that would last a long time. It’s a small change that’s made a big difference.

  • Learning Italian - I’ve spent over 40 hours learning Italian this year and even have a penpal now. Italians are so welcoming, and I’m excited to put my skills to the test during next year’s trip to Sardinia and the Dolomites.

  • Personal milestones - I finally got over my reluctance to surf after consistent lessons in Maui. I also presented our Corsica bike tour with Leah at the Mountaineers, which was really fun.

What I’ll focus on in 2025

  • Continue the video project - The 1-second project takes effort, but it’s always worth it.

  • Build new friendships - I’ll put myself out there more, tapping into friends-of-friends networks and meeting new people.

  • Run more - Running is never fun at the start, but I know it gets better with consistency.

  • More backpacking - I should do more backpacking if I can ensure it’d be scenic and not crowded.

  • Climbing gym - I have a ton of punch passes to burn at the climbing gym and want to make it a bigger part of my routine.

Favorite memories

  • Puerto Vallarta dinners - Going to Puerto Vallarta wasn’t something I had planned on, but I decided to check it out on a whim. It has a reputation for being a party town, but we were able to find some superb dinners (Makai, La Tienda Grande, Tintoque, and Café des Artistes) with Leah and her mom.

  • Mountain biking Port Gamble - Patrick and Paul joined Leah and me for some superb riding on an unusually pleasant January day. It was a big loop that we had planned and we covered a ton of ground.

  • PT graduation - Leah celebrated my graduation day from ACL rehab by getting cupcakes from Deep Sea Sugar and Spice. They were phenomenal and I’m glad I got to share it with my physical therapy team since they’ve helped me so much.

  • Crystal powder day - It was my first time at Crystal mountain and I went on a weekday right after a big storm. There were no lines, and everyone I saw had a huge smile on their face.

  • Skiing Mt St Helens - I went with Paul just before the permits were required. A perfect bluebird weekend day meant tons of people who had no idea what they were doing. Thanks to all the Youtube videos I watched, my third time ever ski touring was an epic blast. Someone died falling off the corniced lip just an hour before we summited though.

  • 45 inch box jump - I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to do this again, but I cleanly cleared a 45 inch box jump at PT and I was really proud of it.

  • Red Rock climbing - Patrick and I got out to Vegas for some climbing at Red Rock, having a blast on some moderate trad routes that took all day to complete. I ended up slightly hurting my finger on a sport route that I TR’d in approach shoes. I won’t do that again.

  • Skiing Camp Muir on Rainier - Went out early in the morning with Cliff to make my second attempt at skiing Camp Muir on Mt Rainier. It was brutal dealing with altitude but I had the best snow I’ve ever skied in my life.

  • Audiobooks - On the drive over to Camp Muir, Cliff was playing John Steinbeck’s East of Eden. It reminded me of how much I loved reading. I unsubscribed from a bunch of podcasts and added several gems of books that I completed this year including: East of Eden (of course), Pachinko, Shogun, Project Hail Mary, James, and many more.

  • Board games with Ben - Ben was visiting and we had some time to burn in the afternoon, so I took him to Mox Boarding House. I’m not very into board games because I find learning the new rules takes too long, but he found some great ones like Splendor and Codenames that I picked up quickly and really enjoyed.

  • Olympic Adventure Trail - Got a big group of friends, many who were new to me, camped out at Fairholme. Only had to ride the trail one way thanks to shuttling of cars.

  • San Juan Island road ride with Kara and Woody - We spotted a rain shadow in the San Juan Islands, and Kara and Woody joined us for a bike tour of San Juan Island. It was a perfect escape from the overcast skies in the city and the scenery was spectacular.

  • Friends dinner at Delancey - I wanted to treat my Seattle friends to dinner this summer, so we did it at Delancey. A bunch of folks hadn’t ever met and everyone had a great time. I might do something like this every year.

  • First gap jumps - I cleared all of the jumps on Gravy Train in Duthie! When the class started, I placed myself in the group of people who would not try a single one. After some tabletops, I realized I could probably clear the jumps without issue. I ended up getting two more laps after the adrenaline surge settled down.

  • Galbraith with Greg - Greg is a complete noob at mountain biking but has some interest in it. I wanted to show him some real riding when he visited so Leah and I took him up to Galbraith. The highlight of the day was our lap on the new Blue Ribbon trail.

  • Biking Washington Pass - The stars aligned and I was able to bike to Washington Pass in perfect weather on the weekend just before cars would be allowed. At the top, a bee that had gotten caught in my hood ended up stinging me right in my neck. I learned that I was not allergic to bee stings that day.

  • Presentation at the mountaineers - Leah and I presented our Corsica bike tour slideshow style to the Mountaineers bikepacking group. Lots of people showed up and I had a lot of fun sharing our experiences.

  • Colchuck Peak - I went solo up Colchuck Peak, and ended up moving much faster on it than I thought I would. I did have some nervous moments on slushy snow traverses (which reminded me to resole my boots) but I had a lot of solitude on the mountain since I started far earlier than anyone else.

  • Bike/Ski Pilchuck - A week before the long and steep road to Mt Pilchuck opened up after years of being closed, I got on my bike and pedaled up with skis on my back. I heard there was still some snow up there and I figured I could get a few turns in. It was a brutal slog up the road and even worse trudging through the snow. On the way down, the snow was more like a slurpy and very uncomfortable to ski through. I got three turns in before deciding this wasn’t a good idea. I still had fun though.

  • Galbraith with Patrick and Paul - Patrick and Paul joined us for a Galbraith trip, and we lapped Unemployment Line several times, which is what everyone really wanted to do.

  • Number 2 Canyon riding - After spectacular riding in the Methow, we headed back home to Seattle the next day, but stopped by Wenatchee’s Number 2 Canyon. Even though there were clouds and some rain, we had such a fun time on the Sundance trail, since the flowers were fully in bloom. It was a perfect flow trail. Even the climb to the top was fun.

  • Seafair - I found a perfect spot in Seattle that isn’t crowded where I could enjoy unobstructed views of the Seafair show while enjoying takeout from Lil Red. It was absolutely incredible to watch what humans are capable of.

  • Temple Crag hike - I knew the High Sierras were cool, but it really was spectacular to hike on some of those trails. The view of Temple Crag is up there with the awe I felt when I first saw Torres del Paine in Chile. What made this memory more special is that I had no idea what the trail would look like since it was a last minute decision to go.

  • Yosemite tunnel - Leah and I had a few hours in Yosemite, and my buddy Jeff had just arrived to climb El Cap. We met up with him and his partner, who worked in the park 20 years ago. He gave us a secret bit of locals beta and Leah and I got a private vantage point onto the park. If you really want to know, find me in person and ask.

  • Alice and Brohm - I loved this Squamish ice cream shop so much that 20% of the reason I’d like to plan another visit to Canada is to try this again. We had it twice a day for a few days.

  • Amazonia wall sport climb - Patrick invited me to go climbing with him at the Exits and I agreed. I led my hardest sport climb without breaking a sweat, confirming again that I definitely can climb harder than I think but I’m just scared to fall.

  • Poppy's Peril w/ Patrick - Getting to this route in the Middle Fork was a fun adventure. We biked in a few miles on a trail, stashed our bikes, and then worked our way up an easy slab for several pitches, within arms reach of a beautiful waterfall. It wasn’t hard at all, just purely fun.

  • Walk around Geneva - I had a full day of walking around Geneva before Peter’s wedding. I started early in the morning and tried to cover as much ground as possible. I don’t have any special love for the city, but I had a great time. Writeup is here.

  • Vesper Peak hike - Leah was craving a hike and we made our way to Vesper Peak. It doesn’t take long before the views open up, and the scenery is incredible.

  • Backpacking near Mt Stuart - Full credit to Leah for making this happen. On a busy weekend for hiking, Leah found a loop that had 10/10 views and none of the crowds without being inconvenient at all.

  • Cle Elum riding - Leah and I got to ride in Cle Elum twice and it’s been a blast both times. We love Brass Monkey and Beer Can.

  • Cyclocross race - I joined a cyclocross race and was the only person on a mountain bike. I had a gravel bike that would be perfect, but I was interested to see how I’d perform. I did horribly, but Leah also raced it and it was so much more fun to watch and support her.

  • Seattle Aquarium - I haven’t been to an aquarium since I was in the first grade. I went to the new wing of the Seattle Aquarium this year and had such a good time staring at sea creatures on my own. It was like looking at alien life forms.

  • Mariscos Submarinos with the boys - I love visiting Jeff, Ben, and Greg when I’m in NYC. I wish they were in Seattle. We had a fun dinner bullshitting over dinner and then wandered into a bakery in Jackson Heights just before they closed, eating flan and tres leches on the street.

  • Boise with Luke - My good friend Luke was visiting his family in Boise and I went over to visit him. I got to meet his parents, new wife, and new baby which was very special. We also did some rad riding around Boise which was an absolute blast.

  • Ben Sollee concert - I got tickets to see Ben Sollee at the Fremont Abbey. We were already in a good mood after a stellar dinner at Lupo across the street. He put on a very personal and intimate concert that I’m very grateful for. I only heard of him over ten years ago and just from a single song that Spotify had recommended.

  • Sunny day on Tour du Mont Blanc - Most of our Mont Blanc ride had overcast skies or rain, but there was one day, on the most remote section where abundant sunshine poured into the mountains. It was so peaceful and green and I felt lucky to beable to experience this moment with Leah.

  • Leah’s birthday dinner - We were in San Diego for Leah’s birthday and we had dinner with her mom at Kingfisher. The food was phenomenal and there were some nice touches, like printing a birthday greeting on all of our menus.

  • Dinner at Bob and Joanie's house - Bob and Joanie hosted a Citymaps team reunion in their house on Hastings-on-Hudson. I always love seeing my former teammates.

  • Trampoline park with niece - My niece is five years old and I want to give her some of the experiences that I had wanted but my parents couldn’t afford. I had always wanted to go to a trampoline park so I took her there on a recent visit. We both had so much fun. I was far more tired than she was.

  • Interview with parents - I missed my family a lot this year. Mom had a stroke that she recovered from, but it was another reminder that my parents won’t be around forever. I started interviewing them about their lives and learned so much. There was so much that I didn’t know and my friends were telling me that I should just make a blog about his life instead of mine. I have so many hours of footage and I’ll do something cool with it.

  • Gianmarco Soresi comedy show - I went to see Gianmarco Soresi at a tiny club with my little sister. He was trying out new material and I loved it. I decided I’d make more of an effort to see live comedy in the coming year.