Dolomites, Slovenia, Lake Garda cycling and mountain biking trip - trip notes

I finally made it out to the Dolomites on a solo trip with a bike. Along the way, I also spent time in Slovenia and Lake Garda. This post captures what I did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Sat, August 23 - Land in Milan

  • Landed in Milan at 2:30pm from Seattle, with a transfer in Iceland. Got some euros at the airport.

  • Activated my Airalo sim (code: RAJA8345 for a $3 off code). Since I’d be crossing international borders, I got one that’d cover all of Europe. It worked poorly in Italy where I’d spend most of my time. Instead, I should’ve gotten one for each country when I was there even though it would’ve cost more.

  • Took the airport shuttle a few minutes away to stay at Malpensa Garden. Very simple, great value. I wouldn’t be able to explore Milan, but I had sleep to catch up on and being this far from the city meant I’d have ample space outside to assemble a bike. Lugging around a bike bag in the city would have been a hassle.

  • The only place to eat dinner was Samarcanda. Believe the reviews when they tell you to line up 15 minutes before they open if you want a seat. Good food, no regrets.

Sun, August 24 - Drive to the Dolomites

  • Returned to the airport at 9am for a car rental pickup at Sixt, which had the best prices and selection. Loaded up the car with my disassembled bike. I left my collapsible bike bag with my lodging hosts for 20 euros for two weeks.

  • The first few hours were boring, but once I pointed north the mountains became more dramatic. Stopped for 2pm lunch at Pizzeria La Talpa in Trento. It was definitely a top 10 pizza, and I wasn’t expecting something so incredible.

  • Stopped by the Interspar in Bolzano to get some snacks for the week and other goods before heading east into the Dolomites.

  • The scenery was unbelievable and fortunately I was able to drive slowly to admire it, since the road had cyclists pedaling hard up the winding mountain roads.

  • I parked the car in Arabba and my host came by. We loaded up my bike and everything I’d need for the week into his truck, and he drove up a dirt road above town.

  • I’d be staying in a single room at a cabin called Rifugio Plan Boe. It was an amazing deal for the week and I’d be right on the trails. I’d have dinner every night at the rifugio.

Mon, August 25 - Sellaronda (CW) mountain biking

  • The weather was spectacular and I got on my bike at 8:30am. The plan was to ride the Sellaronda mountain biking loop going clockwise (classic route). I was starting the day right on trail.

  • I rode down to Arabba and got my first lift of the day, which would take me to Porta Vescovo. I purchased an all-day lift pass.

  • The trail is generally easy to follow, but sometimes can be a challenge. Be sure to ask for a paper map, and don’t assume that you can follow any rider since not everyone is doing the whole loop. Also download trailforks offline.

  • I made a friend on the lift, a German guy named Paul. We had a blast riding together.

  • The scenery is stunning. Try and remember where you are on the map and ask yourself what your favorite views were so it doesn’t all feel like a blur.

  • I asked my host where he’d recommend for lunch along the route. He responded “Dantercepies Mountain Lounge or ⁠Baita Pra Valentini. But, it’s hard to find bad places or eat poorly along the route.” We ended up at Dantercepies and had an awesome view with our meal.

  • The last quarter of the loop has the most elevation gain. Paul’s chain was threatening to break so he walked up much of it.

  • I returned back to the lodge at 4:30pm, just in time to shower and dial into work remotely with a view of the cliffs.

  • My total ride stats (not including going up the lifts) were 29mi, 2,200ft ascent, 12,400ft descent. I was on a hardtail Canyon Exceed CF7, and I cleared everything well. I would’ve had more fun on a full suspension that wasn’t a light racing bike, but I needed something that could perform well for road biking as well.

Tues, August 26 - Cycling Passo Falzarego & Passo Giau

  • I drove from Arabba to the small village of Andraz, where I parked and began my road cycling. I headed towards Passo Falzarego (route line). The cycling was easy enough and I even passed a road cyclist. Cars were generous with space and reasonable with speed.

  • The descent was glorious and I was excited for Passo Giau which I knew to be even more scenic. Unfortunately, the sun was out and it felt like the grade of the road increased. I had to stop and catch my breath a few times. I’d later learn that nearly everyone was doing this loop in the opposite direction.

  • After what was decidedly the hardest bike ride of my life (remember, I’m on a mountain bike), I made it to Passo Giau. It was unlike any other mountain pass I’d ever been to.

  • I was so happy that I had three lemon sodas at lunch. There was still more climbing to do after the descent, but the two big passes were behind me.

  • The total ride was 3hr42min (moving time), 33mi, 6,000ft of climbing.

  • After the ride, I had just enough time to drive over to Passo Falzarego and take the cable car up. It was surreal to be in such an alpine environment and see paved paths and even a sauna.

  • I made it back to the cabin at 6pm and started remote work again.

Wed, August 27 - Viel dal Pan hike

  • Instead of breakfast at the cabin, I decided to hike the trail down to the town of Arabba and catch the first lift up to Porta Vescovo. This was the same lift I took two days ago for the Sellaronda CW loop. I was the only person at the super-modern Rifugio Luigi Gorza and I took my time over pastries and sandwiches while the fog lifted from the valley floor.

  • I began the Viel dal Pan hike, a very easy trail that follows a contour line. These trails are common in the area and are referred to as “balcony hikes.” I had a panoramic view of the dying Marmolada glacier and several peaks. When I reached the halfway point to Passo Pordoi, I noticed a glut of more hikers. All of them were headed in the opposite direction. If I had seen this many people on the trail, I wouldn’t have enjoyed my morning as much.

  • Once at Passo Pordoi, I took the Fodom gondola down and hiked for a few miles on flat trail to Arabba and had lunch at Malita Ristorante. The waiter was super friendly once he realized I could chat in Italian and they had unusually good wifi. Got back in time to do remote work again.

Thur, August 28 - Rest day

  • It rained all day. While I wouldn’t have voluntarily taken a rest day, I was happy to take it easy in the cabin all day.

Fri, August 29 - Cascades de Pisciadu hike

  • The forecast called for on and off rain again, but my host encouraged me to go outside anyway. I realized that after the heavy rainfall from yesterday, going to a waterfall would probably be a great idea.

  • I drove over to Corvara in Alta Badia, in the northeast corner of the Piz Boè massif. It was far more developed than Arabba and I grabbed a decent plate of pasta.

  • I felt lazy taking the Borest gondola up the short distance from town, but this would end up being a great idea later. Once I got off the lift, I walked the flat path to the Cascades de Pisciadu. I hung out for a while, amazed at how many lifts there were all around me. The Dolomites would be a great place to bring kids someday.

  • Just as I was starting to head back, the rain started again. I didn’t mind having the lift to limit my time getting soaked.

  • Back at the cabin, my host made me a Pinsa Romana (Roman-style pizza) for dinner and it was superb while I did more remote work while it rained again.

Sat, August 30 - Rifugio Franz Kostner hike

  • My host suggested I head up from the cabin into the mountains, and it didn’t seem like it’d rain for a few hours. With just a rain shell and my phone, I followed a trail uphill. I kept going until I reached Rifugio Franz Kostner.

  • This is a hut now managed by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI), and they pull a great espresso shot. It’s about a five-minute walk from a lift so it’s the closest thing to a wild cabin you’ll find in the Dolomites.

  • It’s a lively and cozy space indoors, filled with history. I took the lift down and hiked around some more before catching another set of lifts that dropped me onto a path back to the cabin..

  • In total, I hiked 5.25mi, 2500ft ascent, and almost the same amount of descent despite the lifts. This would be my last night in the Dolomites for the trip.

Sun, August 31 - Sellaronda (CCW) mountain biking

  • I woke up early to get a start on today’s ride. I’d be attempting the Sellaronda loop counter-clockwise. This approach was also lift-serviced but it’d involve three times more climbing and seemed somewhat contrived. I had a light hardtail bike and I figured if there was any bike capable of doing it, I had it.

  • The loop starts with a descent and then climbs a road. It was too early for the sun to peek over the mountains, and I kept pedaling up to keep warm. For a long while, I was wondering whether this was a good idea.

  • Finally, I got onto some singletrack and enjoyed my descent. For the rest of the day, I felt as if the CCW route (the “green” route) was contrived. There were moments of joy, but I certainly wouldn’t recommend it unless you had an ebike. Even if you did, you’d have more fun on the classic CW route (the “orange” route).

  • I got back to my car in Arabba extremely exhausted. I could have taken a shortcut and taken the road on the way back, but I opted to do the trail in its entirety. Total ride stats: 33.5mi, 3000ft up, 12700ft descent.

  • Once I was done, I had a quick lunch and loaded up the car. Today was supposed to be just a day of driving without riding, but because the last two days had been rainy and I was curious to cross off the CCW route I squeezed it in.

  • I left the Dolomites and headed east, crossing into Austria for a few nights in Villach.

Mon, September 1 - Mangart Saddle cycling

  • As much as I would’ve enjoyed a rest day after the riding and the driving, I woke up early to head south into Slovenia with my bike. There were thunderstorm warnings, but this would be an out-and-back. I’d cycle as high up the road as I could manage before my legs gave up and then I could just turn around.

  • The drive into Slovenia was spectacular, and I immediately wished I had chosen to stay here instead. It was far wilder and steeper than the Dolomites. Even with the thick clouds obscuring the peaks, or perhaps because of that, I was in constant awe at the dramatic rise of the slopes around me.

  • The goal would be to pedal all the way up to Mangart Saddle, the highest road in the country. I opted to start in the town of Bovec, even though I could have shaved off some elevation and distance by starting closer.

  • The roads were the steepest I’d ever ridden and I certainly wasn’t on the ideal bike for it. I was moving slowly, but told myself I would turn around before I’d walk my bike. I was 1,400ft from the top when I decided to turn around. From where I could see, the top was clouded over and I just wasn’t in the mood for more pedaling. I turned my bike around, questioning whether I was making the right decision. I was tired, sure, but I had more gas left in the tank. Ultimately, all my regrets left me when I was flying downhill at incredible speeds. Total ride stats: 26.6mi, 4100ft ascent.

  • My short time in Slovenia convinced me that I should come back with more time.

Tues, September 2 - drive to Lake Garda

  • Today would be an easy day, just driving through the rain to Caprino Veronese. It’s a town to the east of Italy’s Lake Garda. Rather than get lodging by the lake, I opted to be up in the hills staying at an Airbnb situated on a bee farm.

  • I’d have dinner for tonight and tomorrow at Doppio Zero, a pizzeria which made me feel great about avoiding the very touristy lakeside.

Wed, September 3 - cycling around Lake Garda

  • I drove to Torri del Benaco on the eastern shore of Lake Garda and started my CW loop of Italy’s largest lake.

  • The southern part of the lake was easily my least favorite. It was the most developed and much of the lake shore was privatized. I tucked inland and it really only improved after my first stop, which was gelato at Gelateria Ciocolat.

  • Heading north along the western side of the lake I spent a lot of time in long and dark tunnels. There were some absolutely gorgeous sections of bike path that jutted out over the water though. There’s an initiative to make the entirety of the lake as bike friendly as this, but it seems like that will take a while.

  • At Limone sul Garda, I stopped by for a granita and limonata at a small cart along the path. I also considered staying in this town but it was a bit too out of the way.

  • My favorite moment of the ride would be the pizza I had at the northernmost point of the lake at Riva del Garda. While clearly catering to tourists, the town felt much more like it was lived in by locals. I had an amazing pinsa at Pizzeria Basilico. It was so good that I decided to have another one even though it meant I wouldn’t make it back in time for a work meeting.

  • The rest of the ride was flat and I had a great view of the sunset. I stopped at a restaurant along the lake for an hour and a half of work meetings that I took from my phone. I accidentally said “Grazie” to my waiter while I was unmuted and someone asked if I was in Italy.

  • I made it back to the car just as it got dark. I had another excellent celebratory gelato at Gelateria La Limonaia. Total ride stats: 95.5mi, 4600ft.

Thur, September 4 - drive to Milan

  • I drove the short distance into Milan, and the closer I got to the city the more stressful the driving was. Lunch was at Casottel, a very traditional homestyle restaurant on the edge of the city. I got the ossobuco, on a bed of saffron risotto (risotto alla milanese). I’d go back for the rustic vibe.

  • My airbnb was a simple room just steps from the Gambara metro station, which made it convenient for getting into the core of the city. I parked my car and was glad to not use it again for a while.

  • My first stop was to get a haircut at Lucky, a barbershop that was very obsessed with Brooklyn, the Chicago Bulls, and classic hip hop. I didn’t know enough Italian to ask for exactly what I wanted, and I was curious to let him just do whatever he wanted. I was happy with the result and treated myself to gelato at Gelateria LAB.

  • I walked over to a second lunch at one of the Via Pastiera locations. It’s very tourist friendly, but the quality of pasta was excellent. Not cheap.

  • I worked remotely starting at 5pm and didn’t leave until after 10pm when I stopped at a neighborhood trattoria, Megik Land, for some orecchiette.

Fri, September 5 - Milan

  • I had breakfast at Loste Café, a trendy shop with quality coffee and even more impressive pastries. It seemed all the cool, stylish tourists and locals were gathering here to wait in line. I’d definitely come back.

  • I walked over to the Duomo, and grabbed a sandwich at Cesarino. It’s very much a spot geared towards tourists, but my #17 mortadella with truffle sauce was delicious. Instant favorite. They make a great spremuta d’arancia. It’s a relatively affordable meal as well.

  • I wandered into Uniqlo since I had run out of clean clothes, then walked around the Brera neighborhood. I signed up for a 1pm spin class at Gyru Cycling Studio, hoping to hear some Italian and also get a workout. Unfortunately, it was one of those dance-y spin classes and the Spanish instructor was speaking in English.

  • Right after the workout, I went to Ciacco, which I can say has some of the best gelato I’ve ever had. The flavor to get is the crema della bretagna (vanilla bourbon and salted butter). If I lived in Milan, I would come here once a week.

  • I walked around some more and had dinner at Osteria dell’Acquabella. It seemed like an old neighborhood restaurant and I was keen to try the cotoletta alla milanese, a breaded veal cutlet pan-fried in clarified butter. I most enjoyed trying the risotto al salto, another traditional Milanese dish made from leftover, cold risotto that is pan-fried into a crispy, golden-brown patty.

Sat, September 6 - Milan

  • I started my final day in Milan at an espresso bar, all of which have been great during the trip. I walked around randomly until I found myself at Saya Pizza. It was decent, but it reminded me of the trendy pizza spots in NYC in both taste and vibe. I thought about the rise of a monocultural society.

  • I walked around some more and had gelato at Pavé, which I didn’t like very much.

  • After loading up the car, I headed back to Malpensa Garden, unloaded my things and drove to the airport to return my rental.

  • I had a final dinner at Samarcanda.

Sun, September 7 - flying home

  • It was an uneventful flight back home, besides the physical challenge of trying to get a bike bag, a 120L duffel and a large backpack onto a crowded airport shuttle.

Kauai and Maui - trip notes

I finally made it out to Hawaii, something that I thought I’d do more often now that I live on the West coast. Leah and her mom were with me for four days in Kauai and nine days on Maui. This post captures what we did, what I’d do differently, and my general thoughts to help me the next time I visit. Hopefully you find it useful too. I’ll be very brief and to the point.

Fri, Dec 20

  • Landed in Kauai from Seattle at 9:30pm. Turo shuttle picks us up. It’s an 8min drive to the Turo lot. Have cash for a tip.

  • Not much open for dinner, so we drive to Domino’s and are very happy to be here. The Safeway nearby is open 24hrs so we stock up.

  • We drive north to Moloa'a Beach where we’ve got an Airbnb.

Sat, Dec 21

  • We start the day by walking to Moloa’a Beach, which is nice to explore before the crowds arrive.

  • We drive back south towards the airport. We checked out the Kauai Community Market. Lise got some fruit (rambutan, Hawaiian oranges, and some others). She ended up loving the rambutan and couldn’t find it for the rest of the trip.

  • We drove over to Kaua’i Sushi Station for lunch. Lots of chickens running around beneath our feet. The sushi is pretty decent for a truck, don’t expect to be blown away. Lots of flies buzzing around though.

  • We drove over to Waikomo Shave Ice, which I was drawn to because they natural syrup, fresh fruit topping, and local honey. The owner, also named Leah, was friendly. This ended up being Leah and Lise’s favorite spot from the entire trip.

  • Waikomo Shave Ice is connected to Warehouse 3540, a makerspace with some small shops in a cool setting. I got bored pretty quickly while the girls shopped. The bathroom inside is convenient.

  • We drove over to Koloa for Kauai Juice Co, which had a very polished LA vibe. They make a range of hot sauces and there are testers you can sample. Walked around the town which was nice. Sat in the plaza area next to The Fresh Shave where I was tempted to get another shave ice out of boredom as the ladies did more shopping. Grabbed snack bars for later at Hoku Foods Natural Market.

  • We drove over to Kuilau Ridge Trailhead. There was space for two or three cars to park, but we were the only car there. Maybe we were supposed to park at Keahua Stream Bridge just around the bend. It’s a quiet trail that’s easy enough to do in Tevas but trail sneakers would be more comfortable. I’m not sure how far we went (I didn’t record), but we went at least 1.5-2 miles in. Very shaded and moderately humid. Kid-friendly for sure.

  • Got to JO2 Natural Cuisine for a 5:45pm reservation. This ended up being the best dinner of the entire trip. If you arrive before 6pm, you can get the three-course meal for $45.

  • Despite already having dessert with dinner, we stopped in to Wailua Shave Ice on the way home. This was everyone’s second favorite. I thought it was the most interesting, given the textural element.

Sun, Dec 22

  • Left home early to get to Waipa Park and Ride for a reserved shuttle. Shuttles run very often and there’s usually space to get on an earlier bus if you show up a little earlier. We got the 7:40am. The sunrise drive has spectacular scenery.

  • Hiked to Hanakāpīʻai Falls. Total mileage was 8.25mi (2,200ft ele). The trail is sometimes slippery and it’d be easy to roll an ankle. We didn’t bring trekking poles but I’d have loved them for the stream crossings. I saw one guy stupidly try jumping onto a wet polished slab and almost crack his skull by falling backwards. Trail shoes definitely recommended. Leah hiked fast to get past the slow people who had 7am or earlier shuttles. We had a great moment admiring the waterfall, watching some people swim (was very cold and not sunny in that valley). On the way back, most slow groups understood to let us pass, but others seemed to try and move faster.

  • Got back to the car and stopped in to Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market for some excellent poke in the late afternoon. No place to sit, but there are rocks by the nearby stream where you can watch some kayakers. Went to Wishing Well Shave Ice (also in Hanalei) and it was decent. I’d do it again if I was in the area.

  • Would’ve loved to see more of Hanalei but headed back home. Left for dinner in the Grand Hyatt Resort at Tidepools. Made a reservation just before sunset, so we could walk the grounds. It’s all very beautiful, but know that the path along the beach is open to the public, not just the hotel guests and restaurant diners. The dinner was pretty meh, especially given the exorbitant cost. Very surprised anyone recommends this. I felt like an idiot for bringing others this spot.

Mon, Dec 23

  • Left very early and drove up to Waimea Canyon. The change in scenery is dramatic, going from lush and green to dry and red very quickly.

  • On the way over, we grabbed lunch at Konohiki Seafoods. The poke was very good. Figure out what you want before you’re up because they’re not going to be too patient. There’s a long line to get through. There won’t be space to sit, so we sat on some rocks by the Hanama’ulu sign across the street.

  • Went up as far as the road allowed, which was Kalalau Lookout. Bring binoculars to appreciate how the details of the Nā Pali Coast. We set off on foot to walk the remaining 1 mile on the paved (but closed) road to the Pu’u O Kila Lookout. It’s a pleasant walk, especially if you time it so that everyone is heading back. On the drive back to town, we stopped at all of the lookouts. Since it was the last hour before sunset, we had these views to ourselves.

  • Got to Japanese Grandma's Cafe in Hanapepe for a 6:45pm dinner. Lovely backyard setting with live music playing. The food is good, but the vibe is excellent. I’d come back here regularly if I lived in the area.

Tues, Dec 24

  • We start the day again by taking a dip at Moloa’a Beach.

  • We get a late start and get poke for lunch at Pono Market, which was very good. I wish I could’ve eaten more. Just two doors down you’ll find a lot with some food trucks and picnic tables to sit at.

  • On the drive back home we stop at Kalalea Juice Hale. The roadside setting is spectacular.

  • Leah and I spend the hour before sunset at a beach that I loved. It had far less plastic trash on it. I won’t mention the name unless you ask me in person.

Notes on Kauai

  • It only rained briefly maybe once a day, except for one day where it poured hard for an hour or two straight. The air often smelled sweet and fragrant. We never ran the air-conditioner as the fan was more than enough.

  • It was rough to be woken up by roosters as early as 4am.

  • It gets chilly at night, especially if there’s a breeze coming through or you go to dinner somewhere air-conditioned. Pack a small layer even if you don’t think you need it.

  • We wanted to explore as much of the island as possible, so we know where we’d want to stay for our next visit. This meant a lot of driving and the island isn’t easy to drive.

  • We had no issues with bugs.

  • I did like where we stayed near Moloa’a Beach. I think I’d stay anywhere on the island next time except Lihue (busier) or the Poipu resorts. If I were to try and have it all, I’d split my time between Anahola and Hanapepe.

  • We did not go snorkeling because the snorkel report (published daily) wasn’t good.

Wed, Dec 25

  • We land in Maui at 11am, pick up our Turo (a Toyota Tacoma), and head straight to Safeway (open on Christmas) for lunch. I had some very mediocre poke here, but I was grateful to the employees for working on the holiday.

  • The Tacoma would end up being the perfect vehicle for this island given our activities.

  • We’re staying at a friend’s place in Pukalani, located at a cooler higher elevation in what’s called Upcountry. Just before sunset, we went for a walk on Thompson Road. It’s a paved one lane road with views of rolling hills and lava rock walls denoting property lines. You’ll get a peek at Oprah’s estate up on the left.

  • Although some spots are open for dinner, none of it looks good so we just eat groceries from Safeway.

Thur, Dec 26

  • Leah and I head to Ukumehame Beach for the first of five surf lessons with Zack Howard.

  • Right after the lesson we drive a short distance to Olowalu mile marker 14 where the snorkeling report says it’ll be good. We check out some marine life and head to Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop. Everyone in the long line was wishing they had cell signal so they could order for pickup and not have to wait. I make a note to do that next time. There’s a convenient bathroom in the restaurant. We skip the famous pies and just get a salad and hot dog.

  • On the way back home, I grab a late lunch at Tin Roof Maui. The seating is some small chairs that are baking in the parking lot. This is another spot I wish I ordered for online in advance. The move here is the mochiko chicken with the spicy noodles. There’s a substantial amount here and I’d recommend splitting it with someone.

  • Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice - Kahului is nearby so we walk over. The line is unbearable in the hot sun, but it’s worth it. Just know that it does not move fast here. The texture of their ice soaked in the syrup is the best I’ve had. So smooth, almost like a sorbet.

  • We head in to Pa’ia where we shop around for some surfing equipment. The shops all close at 6pm. For dinner we’re lined up at Paia Fish Market Restaurant. There’s going to be a wait, so you’ll have plenty of time to figure out what you want. This is probably the best dollar for quality meal we had on the trip. I’d repeat.

Fri, Dec 27

  • Another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard. Conditions are absolutely perfect. This is where beginners surf, at least this time of year. A photographer on the beach snapped some pics of us and we happily pay him $35 each for the memory.

  • We drive to Kihei with the intention of snorkeling given the snorkel report. Lise and Leah note that this stretch feels a bit more like Florida, not in a good way. We don’t snorkel.

  • Lunch is at Kitoko in South Maui Gardens. I liked being there. It feels like a nice food truck park. Kitoko was excellent. There’ll probably be a musician playing something. If you see an older, long-haired guy named Armadillo playing music, you should ask him how he ended up on the island. It’s a fun story.

  • I grab dinner from Pukalani Superette. Their selection was limited unfortunately at that hour. I’d like to go back during lunch. Had some mediocre poke. The shop is worth checking out for the selection of other goods they’ve got.

Sat, Dec 28

  • We head to the Upcountry Farmer’s Market early in the morning. We were repeatedly warned that it’s a madhouse if you don’t get there very early.

    • I had breakfast at the Indian food truck, which was recommended to me. I wouldn’t recommend it. The owner did warn me that it’s not going to be heavy and creamy, and that she uses olive oil instead of ghee. That should’ve been a red flag. It tasted like the kind of Indian food you’d get at a yoga retreat. It was satisfying, just boring.

    • I grabbed two bottles of kombucha from Maui Jun. She had some good flavors, intending to replicate soda pop flavors. Rather than use sugar, she uses local honey.

    • My favorite stop was Hi Spice. I sampled about 10 bottles and had a good chat with the dude. At 4 bottles for $30 it was a steal. I now regret not buying a second case.

    • We stopped at Crema Maui, which was in a converted trolley.

  • We had another surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.

  • We snorkeled at Oluwalu mile marker 14 again. This is where the conditions were again reported to be best. We saw a monk seal in the water playing with a diver flag for several minutes.

  • We grabbed lunch at Sam Sato’s, a very old school Japanese diner. I loved the vibe here. The famous dry noodles are pretty light on flavor, but I’d go back. It was really cheap and had a local vibe, felt like you were eating food your buddy made. I also got the turnovers (manju was sold out), miso soup, and beef stick (incredible, get two).

  • We went out for dinner at Ocean Vodka. They have a beautiful, grassy open space with picnic tables (reservation only), a panoramic view of the sunset, and really good live music. If you don’t have a reservation, you can just grab some Adirondak chairs and seat yourself wherever. It’s great for people-watching. Just know that it gets very breezy, so you’ll want to be prepared for throwing on warm layers. The food is of the quality you’d get at a mid-sized American airport (not bad, not great), but remember you’re here for the vibe.

Sun, Dec 29

  • We had another morning surf lesson at Ukumehame Beach with Zack Howard.

  • I grabbed poke for lunch at Foodland in Pukalani. It was amazing and might be my favorite of the entire trip. The guy at the counter was really friendly and let me sample as many as I wanted.

  • We went up to Kula Botanical Garden. It’s in a beautiful setting and at $15 it’s a lot of fun. I had enough service to ask ChatGPT to identify the plants and flowers without labels. I also was reading aloud stories about the Hawaiian gods.

  • We checked out Makawao, a former paniolo/cowboy town that now has boutique shopping. After walking around, we ended up at Little Tibet. Even if you have no interest in jewelry, Jacques has some cool stories. Ask him if he remembers the guy who bought his last turquoise bracelet.

  • We headed back to Kihei to pick up bikes that we’d be renting tomorrow from Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. I’d highly recommend them. Very affordable for a quality road bike. Just reserve in advance. We stocked up on cycling snacks here.

  • We grabbed early dinner at Coconut's Fish Cafe. They’re known for their fish tacos (not like Tijuana-style) but I got their fish and chips which I loved. This was another one of the better value meals. Would repeat.

Mon, Dec 30

  • We woke up at 5am to do a bike loop of West Maui. We started out at Foodland at around 7am and finished at around 2:30am. We went clockwise, which was against the wind for much of the ride although it felt safest to be on the inside.

    • The first flat 20 miles until Lahaina went quickly. Biking through Lahaina was extremely sobering. We stopped at Napili Market (mile 30) for lunch. I had the best and cheapest bowl of poke here I think. An entire bowl of poke in the middle of a bike ride isn’t an optimal choice, but I’d happily do it again.

    • We passed by Honolua Bay, but didn’t have enough time to really check out the surfers from the lookout point. I wish we did.

    • At mile 43 there’s a super steep section. It’s a hamstring burner. The views get incredible on the north coast. There will be stands for banana bread and cookies but I’m allergic to bananas and buying an entire loaf seemed like a bad idea.

    • Very soon the road becomes rougher and has some blind turns. Take these turns carefully as the locals will whip around the bends sometimes. It’s another reason why going clockwise felt safer (you won’t get bumped off the cliff edge). Some sections are one lane only and at times you may be faster than the cars since the bike is more nimble.

  • We dropped off the bikes before 4pm at Maui Sunriders Bike Shop. Grabbed late lunch at one of the food trucks at South Maui Gardens.

Tues, Dec 31

  • We had our final surf lesson. Ukumehame Beach was flat, so we headed over to Pa’ia Bay, where the waves were 3-4 feet. It’s a beautiful beach for hanging out in.

  • We got Waikomo Shave Ice in Pa’ia since we loved the Kauai location so much.

  • I picked up lunch from Keith at Only Ono BBQ. I had to text him what I wanted two days before since he’s only open once a week. He’s a cool dude and he makes the best chinese bbq pork I’ve ever tasted. He has plans to open a restaurant very soon.

  • We left home to drive to I’ao Valley. You’ll want to get a reservation beforehand. We had just enough cell service at the entrance to pay for admission on my phone. It’s an incredible setting. The hike is short and you can do it in crocs. Being there at sunset was nice because we were the last people in the area.

  • We had dinner at Balai Pata. Everything was great, but the malungay garlic noodles were incredible. I wouldn’t mind skipping the lumpia though.

  • Driving home we could see fireworks in all directions. Depending on where you’re staying on NYE, expect your neighbors to be setting them off. I slept with headphones on.

Wed, Jan 1

  • We figured doing the famous Road to Hana drive on a holiday when some folks would be flying home was a good idea. I think it was.

    • We started driving at 6am. The sunrise was beautiful. We had the GuideAlong audio tour, which was synced to our GPS location. I can’t recommend it enough.

    • We arrived to Wai’anapanapa State Park by 9am. I reserved a 7-10am time slot in advance. This is where you’ll find the black sand beaches. It seemed like camping was possible, which is something I’d look into later. The beach is small and fills up quickly.

    • We drove straight to the Ohe’o Gulch and Pipiwai Bamboo Trail parking lot after that. Be sure to pack your NPS pass if you’ve got one. The hike is a scenic 4mi round trip which I liked. The viewing area for the waterfall is very small, so it’ll get crowded unless you show up early.

    • I was hoping to try some of the Huli Huli chicken but it was closed. We did get some phenomenal juice at a truck in Hana though.

    • We drove through Ke’anae Peninsula which was wonderful, and we made a stop at Honomanu Beach, which was a rockier black sand beach in a beautiful setting.

    • Expect it to rain in the afternoon when you’re in Hana.

    • We stopped at a few small viewpoints that the audio tour recommended, but we would’ve loved to check out the Arboretum, Hamoa Beach, and others.

    • The driving is tough and often very tense. The locals drive fast and some tourists are inspired to do the same. Pack extra phone batteries, water, and snacks.

  • We had dinner reserved at Hali'imaile General Store. It was a nice setting, but felt very fake and the food was just okay. I wasn’t upset I went there, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Expect a mix of people in sweatpants/shorts and people dressed up very handsomely.

Thur, Jan 2

  • We flew out. I had enough time to get lunch at Tin Roof one last time.

Notes on Maui

  • I liked staying in Upcountry. If I were to do it again, I’d split time between Hana and Upcountry.

  • There was so much we didn’t have time to do in Maui. I’d happily come back many times.

2024 video recap - 1 second everyday

At the start of this year, I began recording a second of video every day (using 1SE). I’ve done this twice before in my mid-20s, and each time I’ve become more grateful for the effort. In the short term, these clips remind me of what I’ve accomplished and how my family and friends bring so much meaning to my life. In the long term, they act as a time capsule, capturing the perspective of a younger version of myself. This is a lot to write, but I’m assuming I’ll be very happy to have these moments bottled up when I’m older.

Here’s what my 2024 looked like:

What I’ll remember about 2024

  • Mountain miking improvements - This year marked big progress on the bike. I’m still not at my friends’ level, but watching clips from earlier in the year reminds me how far I’ve come. Credit goes to lessons with Fluidride and pushing myself outside my comfort zone.

  • ACL Rehab and setbacks - Recovering from an ACL tear went exceptionally well, though a severe groin strain mid-year set me back. I got through it with rehab, but being less disciplined probably prolonged the recovery. It’s a reminder that consistency pays off.

  • Memorable vacations - This was my first year traveling with Leah and her mom, with trips to Puerto Vallarta, San Diego, and Hawaii. Each trip brought its own unique experiences, from incredible dinners to exploring new places together.

  • Adventures with friends - Patrick was a constant partner for outdoor adventures—climbing at Red Rock, biking at Darrington and Index, and more. Friends visiting Seattle made for great memories too, like the long Lake Washington loop with Tom and Greg that turned into a tour of ice cream spots.

  • Cycling adventures - My bike took me to amazing places: Washington Pass before cars reopened, the San Juan Islands, the Olympic Adventure Trail, and Obstruction Point. Whether with friends or solo, these rides were meditative and fulfilling.

  • Exploring Seattle - Injuries kept me from the outdoors at times, but exploring the city filled that gap. I enjoyed the Seattle Aquarium’s new wing, long walks with Leah, and spots like the conservatory gardens.

  • Ski touring - Ski touring stood out as the most memorable part of skiing. From a perfect day at Mt. St. Helens to incredible snow at Camp Muir, every outing reminded me why I love being in the mountains.

  • Changing my wardrobe - After a decade of relying on gym clothes, I overhauled my closet at the end of last year. I donated my old wardrobe to relatives in Bangladesh and thoughtfully rebuilt it with things I liked that would last a long time. It’s a small change that’s made a big difference.

  • Learning Italian - I’ve spent over 40 hours learning Italian this year and even have a penpal now. Italians are so welcoming, and I’m excited to put my skills to the test during next year’s trip to Sardinia and the Dolomites.

  • Personal milestones - I finally got over my reluctance to surf after consistent lessons in Maui. I also presented our Corsica bike tour with Leah at the Mountaineers, which was really fun.

What I’ll focus on in 2025

  • Continue the video project - The 1-second project takes effort, but it’s always worth it.

  • Build new friendships - I’ll put myself out there more, tapping into friends-of-friends networks and meeting new people.

  • Run more - Running is never fun at the start, but I know it gets better with consistency.

  • More backpacking - I should do more backpacking if I can ensure it’d be scenic and not crowded.

  • Climbing gym - I have a ton of punch passes to burn at the climbing gym and want to make it a bigger part of my routine.

Favorite memories

  • Puerto Vallarta dinners - Going to Puerto Vallarta wasn’t something I had planned on, but I decided to check it out on a whim. It has a reputation for being a party town, but we were able to find some superb dinners (Makai, La Tienda Grande, Tintoque, and Café des Artistes) with Leah and her mom.

  • Mountain biking Port Gamble - Patrick and Paul joined Leah and me for some superb riding on an unusually pleasant January day. It was a big loop that we had planned and we covered a ton of ground.

  • PT graduation - Leah celebrated my graduation day from ACL rehab by getting cupcakes from Deep Sea Sugar and Spice. They were phenomenal and I’m glad I got to share it with my physical therapy team since they’ve helped me so much.

  • Crystal powder day - It was my first time at Crystal mountain and I went on a weekday right after a big storm. There were no lines, and everyone I saw had a huge smile on their face.

  • Skiing Mt St Helens - I went with Paul just before the permits were required. A perfect bluebird weekend day meant tons of people who had no idea what they were doing. Thanks to all the Youtube videos I watched, my third time ever ski touring was an epic blast. Someone died falling off the corniced lip just an hour before we summited though.

  • 45 inch box jump - I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to do this again, but I cleanly cleared a 45 inch box jump at PT and I was really proud of it.

  • Red Rock climbing - Patrick and I got out to Vegas for some climbing at Red Rock, having a blast on some moderate trad routes that took all day to complete. I ended up slightly hurting my finger on a sport route that I TR’d in approach shoes. I won’t do that again.

  • Skiing Camp Muir on Rainier - Went out early in the morning with Cliff to make my second attempt at skiing Camp Muir on Mt Rainier. It was brutal dealing with altitude but I had the best snow I’ve ever skied in my life.

  • Audiobooks - On the drive over to Camp Muir, Cliff was playing John Steinbeck’s East of Eden. It reminded me of how much I loved reading. I unsubscribed from a bunch of podcasts and added several gems of books that I completed this year including: East of Eden (of course), Pachinko, Shogun, Project Hail Mary, James, and many more.

  • Board games with Ben - Ben was visiting and we had some time to burn in the afternoon, so I took him to Mox Boarding House. I’m not very into board games because I find learning the new rules takes too long, but he found some great ones like Splendor and Codenames that I picked up quickly and really enjoyed.

  • Olympic Adventure Trail - Got a big group of friends, many who were new to me, camped out at Fairholme. Only had to ride the trail one way thanks to shuttling of cars.

  • San Juan Island road ride with Kara and Woody - We spotted a rain shadow in the San Juan Islands, and Kara and Woody joined us for a bike tour of San Juan Island. It was a perfect escape from the overcast skies in the city and the scenery was spectacular.

  • Friends dinner at Delancey - I wanted to treat my Seattle friends to dinner this summer, so we did it at Delancey. A bunch of folks hadn’t ever met and everyone had a great time. I might do something like this every year.

  • First gap jumps - I cleared all of the jumps on Gravy Train in Duthie! When the class started, I placed myself in the group of people who would not try a single one. After some tabletops, I realized I could probably clear the jumps without issue. I ended up getting two more laps after the adrenaline surge settled down.

  • Galbraith with Greg - Greg is a complete noob at mountain biking but has some interest in it. I wanted to show him some real riding when he visited so Leah and I took him up to Galbraith. The highlight of the day was our lap on the new Blue Ribbon trail.

  • Biking Washington Pass - The stars aligned and I was able to bike to Washington Pass in perfect weather on the weekend just before cars would be allowed. At the top, a bee that had gotten caught in my hood ended up stinging me right in my neck. I learned that I was not allergic to bee stings that day.

  • Presentation at the mountaineers - Leah and I presented our Corsica bike tour slideshow style to the Mountaineers bikepacking group. Lots of people showed up and I had a lot of fun sharing our experiences.

  • Colchuck Peak - I went solo up Colchuck Peak, and ended up moving much faster on it than I thought I would. I did have some nervous moments on slushy snow traverses (which reminded me to resole my boots) but I had a lot of solitude on the mountain since I started far earlier than anyone else.

  • Bike/Ski Pilchuck - A week before the long and steep road to Mt Pilchuck opened up after years of being closed, I got on my bike and pedaled up with skis on my back. I heard there was still some snow up there and I figured I could get a few turns in. It was a brutal slog up the road and even worse trudging through the snow. On the way down, the snow was more like a slurpy and very uncomfortable to ski through. I got three turns in before deciding this wasn’t a good idea. I still had fun though.

  • Galbraith with Patrick and Paul - Patrick and Paul joined us for a Galbraith trip, and we lapped Unemployment Line several times, which is what everyone really wanted to do.

  • Number 2 Canyon riding - After spectacular riding in the Methow, we headed back home to Seattle the next day, but stopped by Wenatchee’s Number 2 Canyon. Even though there were clouds and some rain, we had such a fun time on the Sundance trail, since the flowers were fully in bloom. It was a perfect flow trail. Even the climb to the top was fun.

  • Seafair - I found a perfect spot in Seattle that isn’t crowded where I could enjoy unobstructed views of the Seafair show while enjoying takeout from Lil Red. It was absolutely incredible to watch what humans are capable of.

  • Temple Crag hike - I knew the High Sierras were cool, but it really was spectacular to hike on some of those trails. The view of Temple Crag is up there with the awe I felt when I first saw Torres del Paine in Chile. What made this memory more special is that I had no idea what the trail would look like since it was a last minute decision to go.

  • Yosemite tunnel - Leah and I had a few hours in Yosemite, and my buddy Jeff had just arrived to climb El Cap. We met up with him and his partner, who worked in the park 20 years ago. He gave us a secret bit of locals beta and Leah and I got a private vantage point onto the park. If you really want to know, find me in person and ask.

  • Alice and Brohm - I loved this Squamish ice cream shop so much that 20% of the reason I’d like to plan another visit to Canada is to try this again. We had it twice a day for a few days.

  • Amazonia wall sport climb - Patrick invited me to go climbing with him at the Exits and I agreed. I led my hardest sport climb without breaking a sweat, confirming again that I definitely can climb harder than I think but I’m just scared to fall.

  • Poppy's Peril w/ Patrick - Getting to this route in the Middle Fork was a fun adventure. We biked in a few miles on a trail, stashed our bikes, and then worked our way up an easy slab for several pitches, within arms reach of a beautiful waterfall. It wasn’t hard at all, just purely fun.

  • Walk around Geneva - I had a full day of walking around Geneva before Peter’s wedding. I started early in the morning and tried to cover as much ground as possible. I don’t have any special love for the city, but I had a great time. Writeup is here.

  • Vesper Peak hike - Leah was craving a hike and we made our way to Vesper Peak. It doesn’t take long before the views open up, and the scenery is incredible.

  • Backpacking near Mt Stuart - Full credit to Leah for making this happen. On a busy weekend for hiking, Leah found a loop that had 10/10 views and none of the crowds without being inconvenient at all.

  • Cle Elum riding - Leah and I got to ride in Cle Elum twice and it’s been a blast both times. We love Brass Monkey and Beer Can.

  • Cyclocross race - I joined a cyclocross race and was the only person on a mountain bike. I had a gravel bike that would be perfect, but I was interested to see how I’d perform. I did horribly, but Leah also raced it and it was so much more fun to watch and support her.

  • Seattle Aquarium - I haven’t been to an aquarium since I was in the first grade. I went to the new wing of the Seattle Aquarium this year and had such a good time staring at sea creatures on my own. It was like looking at alien life forms.

  • Mariscos Submarinos with the boys - I love visiting Jeff, Ben, and Greg when I’m in NYC. I wish they were in Seattle. We had a fun dinner bullshitting over dinner and then wandered into a bakery in Jackson Heights just before they closed, eating flan and tres leches on the street.

  • Boise with Luke - My good friend Luke was visiting his family in Boise and I went over to visit him. I got to meet his parents, new wife, and new baby which was very special. We also did some rad riding around Boise which was an absolute blast.

  • Ben Sollee concert - I got tickets to see Ben Sollee at the Fremont Abbey. We were already in a good mood after a stellar dinner at Lupo across the street. He put on a very personal and intimate concert that I’m very grateful for. I only heard of him over ten years ago and just from a single song that Spotify had recommended.

  • Sunny day on Tour du Mont Blanc - Most of our Mont Blanc ride had overcast skies or rain, but there was one day, on the most remote section where abundant sunshine poured into the mountains. It was so peaceful and green and I felt lucky to beable to experience this moment with Leah.

  • Leah’s birthday dinner - We were in San Diego for Leah’s birthday and we had dinner with her mom at Kingfisher. The food was phenomenal and there were some nice touches, like printing a birthday greeting on all of our menus.

  • Dinner at Bob and Joanie's house - Bob and Joanie hosted a Citymaps team reunion in their house on Hastings-on-Hudson. I always love seeing my former teammates.

  • Trampoline park with niece - My niece is five years old and I want to give her some of the experiences that I had wanted but my parents couldn’t afford. I had always wanted to go to a trampoline park so I took her there on a recent visit. We both had so much fun. I was far more tired than she was.

  • Interview with parents - I missed my family a lot this year. Mom had a stroke that she recovered from, but it was another reminder that my parents won’t be around forever. I started interviewing them about their lives and learned so much. There was so much that I didn’t know and my friends were telling me that I should just make a blog about his life instead of mine. I have so many hours of footage and I’ll do something cool with it.

  • Gianmarco Soresi comedy show - I went to see Gianmarco Soresi at a tiny club with my little sister. He was trying out new material and I loved it. I decided I’d make more of an effort to see live comedy in the coming year.

Best things I've eaten around Seattle (second half of 2024)

This year, I decided to keep a shortlist of all the restaurants that I’ve eaten at as a way to quickly remember which of them were memorable meals. I keep notes for each restaurant in a private Google Maps list, and these notes have been helpful when I revisit or when a friend asks me for guidance. Several friends have asked for the actual shortlist of where I’ve eaten so far in 2024.

NOTE: I published a similar list for the first half of 2024, which you can find here.

NOTE: I made a map of these notes that you can follow.

In my shortlist, I gave them 1-4 stars.

4 stars - This blew my mind. I feel so lucky to have experienced this. Everything about this was impressive and exceptional. I’ll be thinking about this for months.

3 stars - This was very good. I can’t wait to tell my friends about this. There were a few things that weren’t perfect, but I’m still looking forward to coming back.

2 stars - I’d look forward to stopping by if I’m passing through the area.

1 star - I liked it, but I’m not in a rush to come back.

These are not restaurant reviews. They’re just my private notes. I tried to put very little effort into this because I’m having a lot of fun outdoors this summer and typing out words feels like a chore at the moment. I did try to clean up and polish these notes so they at least add some value to you.

4 stars

Atoma - Came here for Leah's birthday. Reservations are recommended—it's harder to get a table after Seattle Met named it “Restaurant of the Year 2024.” Fine dining without pretense. The drink menu is very impressive. Be sure to get the Rosette cookie (at least one per person). The grilled cucumber with salsa mocha was refreshing and savory. The chicken liver mousse with quince jam was good but not worth ordering again. Crumpets with kefir butter and garlic honey were tasty. The lion's mane katsu was clever but skippable. The beef coulotte with sweetbreads was a favorite. The iconic baked Alaska is seasonal, with rotating ingredients, but always end with this. They also have very interesting gelato and sorbet flavors.

Anh and Chi (Vancouver, Canada) - Solo lunch. I had the DIY spring roll platter (meat version) and found it excellent—fresh, herbal, fun, and delicious. Also had the iced coffee. I wish I wasn’t alone so I could try more.

3 stars

Alice and Brohm (Vancouver, Canada) - Delicious base of soft serve blended with frozen fruit of your choice. Each bite is a little different—sometimes more fruit chunks, sometimes more creamy base. Way better than I expected. I came here twice a day for three days while visiting. Strawberry is my favorite.

Taylor Shellfish Farms - Perfect for a summer day after mountain biking in Galbraith. The scenic drive adds to the experience. Get the dozen oysters. I especially liked the Sumo Kumo and Fat Bastard varieties, but the Sunseeker was a standout. Avoid visiting during busy times.

Indian-Nepali Kitchen - Located in a super sketchy area with parking shared with a motel. The interior is basic (comically large tables), but the incredible menu and friendly service more than make up for it. The naan was superb—I'd order it every time. The tandoori chicken momos were brilliant and creative. The potatoes with mustard greens were delicious, with a slight bitterness reminiscent of homemade dishes. The sadheko chicken was amazing. Loved everything.

Lil Red Takeout & Catering - As the name implies, it's a takeout spot. The interior isn't much to look at, but the friendly vibe makes up for it. There are picnic tables outside, though it's better to take your order to go since the road is right there. The jerk chicken (small order, no bones) was juicy, sweet, spicy, smoky, and delicious. The mac and cheese (small order) was velvety smooth, piquant, and peppery—great for sharing. The peach cobbler, a special at the time, was fine, but I’m eager to try the rum cake and more of the menu next time.

Ben’s Bread - The blue corn cookie is the best cookie I’ve had in years. Wow.

Lupo - Dark, dimly lit, and cozy—ideal for a date night. Pizzas take a while because of the small oven, so get two for two people. It’s run by the same folks as Stevie’s Famous, and they provide a bottle of chili oil. The chicory, hazelnut, and pear salad was good but not something I’d rush to order again. The Hot Coppa pizza was our favorite—great balance of fatty meat, spice, sweetness, and burrata. The cacio e pepe pizza was too cheesy for both Leah and me. The delicata squash special pizza was good, and we enjoyed it. The sourdough special ice cream was an experimental flavor—delicious and malty, served at the perfect soft ice cream temperature. No surprise, as Stevie’s Famous has incredible ice cream, too.

Stevie’s Famous - Stopped here before an airport dropoff. The Normie slice is very good, but the special white slice they had was incredible—I wish it were regularly available. The mushroom pizza was pretty good, with a nice funk from the gorgonzola. Their chili oil is great for the crusts, and the premium Flatiron chili flakes are a nice touch. The salad is really good, and the large size is bigger than expected. The vanilla custard and pistachio ice creams were superb.

Pancita - They do it really well here. Memelas w/ butter - oaxacan honey (tasted like orange marmalade, quince butter, maiz memelas). Great way to start. Had all the garnachas, loved them all. Listed in order of preference: Albacore tuna tostada, Brisket suadero tacos, Cauliflower al pastor volcanes, Pork belly carnitas tacos, Lentil & mushroom tetela. Skip all the desserts. Skip the agua fresca. Next time will do Salmon aguachile and Chicken in quince & guava mole. Very cute vibe inside. Everyone seems pretty happy to work there too.

2 stars

Paseo - Super savory and juicy Caribbean roast pork sandwich. Order online to skip the line, but don’t be late picking it up. Very messy, so be prepared for sticky hands. I’d get it again but would like to try other sandwiches. Priced well, considering its popularity. Definitely needs the hot sauce. Doesn’t hold up well as takeout.

Pawan’s Kitchen (North Vancouver, Canada) - Stopped here three times on the way to Whistler. Super friendly staff every time, and the food is incredible.

Sushi Hil (Vancouver, Canada) - Took advantage of the exchange rate and got the Sushi Chirashi bowl—like a bowl of jewels. Loved every bit of it. The uni addition was worth it. Leah got the Snow Crab roll (not great, too much mayo), House roll (good), and King Oshi roll (great). Chef Hil has an interesting backstory. Tiny shop, so get a reservation.

Indigo Cow - Made with milk from Hokkaido. Unbelievably creamy and tasty without being overly sweet. The matcha swirl is my favorite. Don’t bother with the add-ons. Always get the black waffle cone.

Kedai Makan - Had a reservation for three. The Kerabu Timun Nanas (pineapple and cucumber salad) was just okay. The Roti Jala wasn’t for me—not a fan of the net bread—but the chicken curry it came with was excellent. The Nasi Lemak with beef rendang was really enjoyable. The chili pan mee was excellent, and the sambal belacan was superb. The coconut ice cream shake was super indulgent; I wouldn’t get it again, though it was good. The honeycomb cake with coconut ice cream and coffee syrup was just okay—not a repeat for me.

Musang - Came here for birthday dinner. Wait staff was stretched as it took 10min for someone to acknowledge us waiting for a table despite having a reservation. Started with Lumpiang Shanghai, which I might always do from now on. Gintaang Gulay w/ garlic rice is a great combo. Could've done without the Inaloban Na Isda (fried fish) and the highly recommended Short Rib Kare-Kare tasted like it was lacking in salt. Should've mentioned something. Open to ordering it again though. The Grilled Corn Bibingka was amazing. It appears on normal menu and dessert menu weirdly. Also got the Almond cake w/ persimmon jam which was pretty good but I was too full to truly enjoy it. Impressive cocktail menu.

Backyard Bakery - Open Saturdays as a pop-up. Excellent pastries—grabbed a bunch for friends visiting Lummi. The peach and cream tart was incredible (but pricey). The raspberry streusel coffee cake was wonderful; I kept eating it whenever I walked by at home. The strawberry rhubarb squares were nice. The chocolate chip cookies were good.

Kabul Afghan Cuisine - Friendly, chatty owner. Tried the Bolani appetizer (light fritters, would skip next time). The Bara Kebab was very good, especially with the fragrant palaw rice. The eggplant addition was superb. Leah got the Ashak (thin dumplings with ground beef); I found it sweet and pleasant but wouldn’t get it again. The Firni dessert was incredible—cold pudding I could eat several of in one sitting.

Spice Waala - Very friendly staff and affordable prices. The chicken tikka roll was fantastic, and the aloo tikki chaat was excellent. Looking forward to trying the chana chaat next time. The seasonal coconut cardamom soft serve with toasted coconut was also excellent.

Communion - Second visit wasn’t as impressive as the first. Came with a group of four and sat at a table so wide it was hard to talk, especially with the noise. The Watermelon Salad was unremarkable—not worth it. Grandma's Mac & Cheese was consistently great. The Collard Greens with Pickled Relish were fine but not a repeat. The Stuffed Squash was okay. The Berbere Chicken was their best dish—perfectly cooked. The Grilled Salmon was very good, perfectly cooked. The Key Lime Pie was excellent (and I don’t even like Key lime pie). The GF Brownie was stellar. Leah enjoyed the Cherie Amour mezcal cocktail.

Slurp Station Aburasoba - Came here solo. Located on a quiet street with a super clean and modern interior (especially for U-District). Simple menu via QR code. Ordered the Salt-based option because the Shoyu sounded lighter. The jumbo size (50% more noodles) was worth it. Although brothless, it’s not dry—super creamy and slippery. All my favorite parts of ramen without the broth or spoon. Chewy noodles and excellent toppings. The best bowl of noodles I’ve had all year.

Indo Cafe - Tiny parking lot and simple interior with spartan decor. The menu is full of chili-laden dishes, and everything looks good. I had the Ayam Goreng Balado (upgraded to yellow rice, a great choice). Not too spicy but incredibly flavorful. The lightly fried chicken is a hands-on experience. The avocado ice cream was super thick with chunks of avocado—perfect for sharing. It’s deceptively heavy for its size.

maiz - Don’t be fooled by the long line—it’s for the Starbucks next door. Phenomenal tacos, though pricey at 3 for $17. Worth every penny. The tortillas are incredible—soft and bursting with flavor. I had the Al Pastor, Chicken Tinga, and Carnitas—all phenomenal. Will return to try guisado, tamales, huaraches, and tlacoyos. Very limited seating—just four or five bar stools.

E-Jae Pak Mor - Came back with Patrick to try the Khao Soi with beef. It was nice but didn’t wow me as much as on the first visit. Next time, I want to try the khao mun gai, tender beef stew, and massaman beef. Also interested in their dry noodles.

1 star

Fuji Bakery - The Japanese souffle cheesecake is one of the best I’ve ever had. Not much room for seating, so take it across the road to Elliott Bay Park. The mini croissant is also excellent. The crunchy cream malasada didn’t live up to the hype, but I’d be open to trying the Ube custard one. Don’t bother with the matcha tiramisu.

South Fork (North Bend, WA) - The brisket sandwich with fries is excellent. Great lawn and perfect summer vibes.

Hi Life - Great spot to grab quality poke right before the ferry. Conveniently located so you can park your car in the ferry line and walk over.

The Independent Pizzeria - Tried the mushroom special pizza and enjoyed it. It can feed one very hungry person. Parking is tough on nice days, so plan ahead. Order in advance—the wait for food is typically 10–15 minutes longer than the estimate. There are two nice picnic tables outside, but you can easily eat along the water.

Post Alley Pizza - Excellent pizza with a crispy, thin crust (maybe too crispy for some—ask for it lightly baked if you prefer). Quality ingredients, and each slice costs less than $5. Tucked away in an alley. Unfortunately, it closes early daily. The hoagie bread was very good, but the chopped cheese wasn’t a proper NYC-style version.

Blackbird Bakery - Wow, the quiche is incredible. Kenji says it’s worth taking the ferry over for—I wouldn’t go that far, but it’s close.

Lummi Beach Store Cafe - Surprisingly good food for being the only restaurant on the island. Skip the seafood salad. Leah liked the watermelon feta starter; I thought it was just okay. The pan pizza with mushrooms is pretty good—super crispy. The zucchini cake is an excellent twist on carrot cake and worth getting again. Amazing backyard with a communal vibe. Food takes a while, and meals don’t come out at the same time.

Taurus Ox - Tried the burger, beef jerky over sticky rice, pork sausage side dish, papaya salad, and phad Lao. The best items were the beef jerky, sausage, and burger. The papaya salad was too funky for me, but Greg loved it. The phad Lao wasn’t flavorful enough. Returned to try the gumbo (great but small portion) and the yellow gaeng curry (not flavorful). The chicken laab lettuce wrap was very boring. Still want to try the khao soi, thom Khmer, and more gumbo.

Bowriders Grill - A cool, casual hangout spot for friends, though it gets crowded with limited seating. The lake view adds to the charm. The menu is simple but well-executed. I recommend the salmon sandwich. The salmon taco is actually more of a wrap. They have a vast collection of interesting hot sauces.

Nasai Teriyaki (in Lake City) - Stopped here during a Toyota visit. The spicy chicken and gyoza combo is great. The gyoza is very good, and the chicken was grilled perfectly. Paid $1 extra for spicy—it was worth it. The spicy sauce, flecked with chili, looked beautiful and was spot-on at a level 4 out of 5.

T55 Pâtisserie - Expect a line, waited 40min. Singaporean pastry chef w/ an impressive resume: elaborate pastries. Head chef of Canlis is a big fan. Did not like the Curry Crab Scone. Peach and Brie financier is a brilliant combo (brown butter almond cake, crunchy top, creamy center). Lemon Matcha Choux (bright in flavor: lemon curd, matcha mouse, vanilla caramel). Cinnamon Babka croissant loaf was too decadent for me. Pain au Chocolat flower is very clever, high quality chocolate and very ingenious structure to ensure every bite has chocolate.

Worth mentioning

For these places, I didn’t have a strong positive opinion, but I liked them enough that I’d come back to them usually because of convenience. Some of them I’d need to go back to before I consider bumping them up on the list.

Tivoli - Tried the pesto pizza but found it overly burnt and generally not good—especially considering the high price. The chilled pistachio noodles with bolognese, however, were excellent and worth ordering again. I’ll return to try the sandwiches, which are only available at lunchtime.

David Family Taqueria (Sequim, WA) - Very friendly service with free, fresh chips and salsa. The rice and beans are excellent. I had the Chile Colorado and enjoyed it. Not many great options in the area, so this is a solid pick. Don’t let the gas station location deter you.

Manpuku Suishi (Squamish, Canada) - A great spot for quality sushi lunch in Squamish. Limited seating inside, but one of the best values in town.

Sirena Gelato - A perfect stop while cycling the North Lake Washington loop. Best combos are Amaretto & Tiramisu, Rose & Pistachio, or just Ube on its own. Flavors I didn’t like: Dutch Cocoa (tasted like powdered cocoa) and Stracciatella (watery taste).

The Stonehouse Cafe - Stopped here during a long bike ride and had the grilled cheese. Decent seating with views, though it’s right by the road. They seem to host a lot of community events. The highlight is Laina’s Handmade Ice Cream—pick a small container from their freezer. The Watermelon Basil flavor is phenomenal. Tom regrettably got the Lemon Poppy.

Toast Mi - Tried the tofu banh mi and was surprised by how much I liked it—I’d normally get the classic version. A great option for a walk in the park. Ordered in advance online.

Zylberschtein's - The pastrami on a bagel is really good.

Tanoor - There aren’t many good options in South Lake Union. Came in out of desperation and was pleasantly surprised. Great Lebanese food. Convenient for large groups.

Maharaja Cuisine of India - Open unusually late (1am), which is rare for Seattle. They offer a $20 weekend lunch buffet (11am–3pm), though I haven’t tried it yet. The food is great, but the service is hilariously absent-minded despite there being an abundance of idle waitstaff. Several locations in the area.

Korea House BBQ & Grill Marysville - Stopped here with Patrick after climbing in Darrington. Not many options in the area, but this was a hit. We feasted on quality meat with Combo B. No need for extra sides, though we indulged anyway.

FlintCreek Cattle Co - $11 for a high-quality patty sourced from small-scale cattle farms in Western Montana, paired with phenomenal blue cheese. Available daily from 4–5:30pm. If I lived nearby, I’d visit several times a month. Primarily a steakhouse with a bright and airy vibe. I assume the burger deal is to bring in new customers.

Gainsbourg - Happy hour pricing all day on Monday. The $7 burger is great, with an extra $1 for gruyere or blue cheese. The tiny roasted beet salad on the HH menu is also good. Very much a dive bar vibe.

Chocolat Vitale - A good date spot with limited seating. There’s also a record shop inside. The hot chocolate is their standout offering. Ask about the chocolate, and the owner will gladly share detailed stories about the beans’ origins. They sell a variety of chocolate bars that would make great gifts for chocolate lovers.

30 Hours in Geneva, Switzerland

It was only minutes after Peter called me that Leah and I were comparing flight options. His wedding in Macon gave us the options of either flying into Paris or make our way to France from Geneva. Between the two of us, we had been to Paris several times and found the idea of a new city exciting. We also noticed how close we’d be to the Alps, which quickly inspired a plan to ride our bikes around Mont Blanc after the wedding.

As soon as we left the airport, I was impressed that it only took seven minutes to arrive to the center of the city via train. Seven minutes! I always knew the Japanese did mass transit well, and now I know the Swiss also are deserving of praise. If you’re using this write-up as a guide, be sure to download the SBB app, which works wonderfully.

We stayed at the Hotel Bernina, right across the street from the main station. I rarely put a lot of thought into my lodging, but I was impressed by the value and quality of the hotel for the price we very reasonable price we paid. Everything I read in Tripadvisor’s AI summary tool (which I helped to build!) was spot on.

The first morning, I woke up well rested and before sunrise with the intention of going on a walk. Despite flying in from Seattle, my jet lag was minimal (or hadn’t yet caught up to me). Leah wouldn’t be awake for another few hours, so I slipped out alone.

Bains des Paquis

The primary reason for waking up before sunrise was to walk over to the Bains des Paquis. It’s a long jetty that reaches into Lac Léman (Lake Geneva). Apparently there’s a sauna and bathhouse during the colder months.

The baths have a small fee to enter but I didn’t see anyone there to stop me from walking along the jetty.

I actually woke up this early because I heard there were live concerts at sunrise during the summer. Only now did I realize that Les Aubes Musicales happens only between July 15 and August 18. I was eleven days late to the party.

I watched several people swimming in the calm lake water. The mountains to the north were now softly shaded pink by the time I began walking back from the lighthouse, while the hills to the south were still silhouetted by a deep orange glow.

I walked around the head of the lake across Pont du Mont Blanc, dodging joggers and several cyclists commuting in to an early shift at work. This early hour has always been my favorite time to explore any city. If I wasn’t healing from an injury I’d have been jogging as well to cover more ground.

I made it to the other side of the lake and was lucky to see the sunrise still letting on a spectacular show. All the colors of the morning were gradually pouring out above me as I walked through the Jardin Anglais.

I continued heading east until I found a beach, Baby-Plage, where I played on some swings made of old rubber tires while I watched the rest of the daylight unravel.

It was still too early for breakfast so I headed over to Parc la Grange. It felt like I had the entire park to myself. By this hour, even the morning joggers were heading home to start their day at work. I wandered around for several minutes and only ran into the groundskeeper of Villa La Grange, a historic mansion dating back to the 18th century.

In 1864, the building hosted the closing gala for officials signing the original 1864 Geneva Convention. More recently in June 2021, it was where President Biden and Vladimir Putin met to try and normalize relations. That was eight months before the invasion which escalated the existing conflict.

At 8AM, Chou, the bakery I had in mind was finally open. It was tucked away on a quiet street and I grabbed an outside table to watch the city wake out of its slumber. There were now more cars on the road so I needed to be a bit more mindful when crossing the street for photographs. The cream puffs (pâte à choux) at Chou were the best I’ve ever had. I paired my caramel au beurre salé cream puff with an éclair, not fully appreciating then how good it was until a week later when I’d have a very bad one in Bourg-Saint-Maurice.

I kept my breakfast light and walked some more, taking a circuitous path west, reminding myself to look up every few minutes to admire the architecture. A lot of what I saw reflected the Haussmannian style which I became familiar with in Paris: elegant, uniform stone buildings with iron balconies, grand windows, and mansard roofs.

I was happy to see that La Halle de Rive, a covered market, was already open. The air smelled thickly of cured meats, cheeses, fresh bread, and plenty of other things that looked just as delicious. Much of the activity inside was from shopkeepers setting up for the day and a small handful of people lined up for bread.

I found Fromagerie Bruand and braced myself for a conversation in French. Fortunately, the shop owner was patient and spoke slow enough for me to understand. Based on my request that I wanted something to munch on while walking, he recommended L’Etivaz and told me it was an alpine cow’s milk cheese with some fruity and hazelnut notes. I sampled a bit and instantly agreed it was a winner. He cut up a small portion for me into thin wedges that would make for a perfect walking snack.

A few blocks away was Auer, a chocolate shop that’s been run by a Swiss family for five generations. Apparently U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry was a huge fan and would stop by between diplomacy meetings in Geneva. At over $50 USD for a small box, it was certainly a luxury item.

I returned to my hotel to sample the treats with Leah. These were absolutely incredible, particularly the chocolate-covered nuts. The amandes princesses were roasted almonds covered in caramelized sugar, finally coated with rich chocolate and a soft layer of cocoa powder. I wish I had gotten an entire box of just these. In comparison, the free Lindt chocolate provided in the room tasted like candy you’d give away to children on Halloween.

Leah joined me and we walked through the old town, the historic heart of Geneva. The area is perched on a hill, crossed with narrow and winding streets. It’s home to Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a Gothic-Romanesque cathedral built in the 12th century and most famous for being a focal point during the Protestant Reformation, led by John Calvin in the 16th century, which left a lasting legacy on the city’s identity, culture, and governance.

We headed in to Maison Tavel, the oldest private home in Geneva that dates back to the 12th century. It’s now a pay-what-you-wish museum covering six floors that capture the story of what it was like living in the region.

We continued wandering to work up an appetite before lunch, getting a peek at the Jet d’Eau from afar. Before becoming an iconic landmark of the city, the water jet was a pressure control solution to the Geneva’s water supply system in 1886. Shortly after, it was later moved to its current location and bolstered up once residents recognized the aesthetic potential for tourism and a monument of Geneva’s identity.

We had lunch at Osteria della Bottega, figuring we should treat ourselves. It was all fine but I wouldn’t ever do it again at that price. The only thing that really sparked our interest us was the olive oil tasting with small pieces of bread.

We continued south towards Parc des Bastions, adjacent to Université de Genève. It’s where you’ll find the The Reformation Wall, honoring key figures of the Protestant Reformation. The monument was carved into the city’s ancient ramparts in 1909, symbolizing Geneva’s role as a stronghold of early Protestantism.

We were less in the mood for sightseeing. It was unusually hot for late August and we grabbed a shaded seat outside at Kiosque des Bastions in the park. We grabbed some cool drinks and lounged while watching the lunch hour unfold. Initially we were impressed at how well dressed the men in Geneva seemed to be on a random weekday. Nearly every man had a tailored shirt and looked like he could be in a fragrance advertisement for Yves Saint Laurent. We realized later we were close to the financial center of the city and these were guys dressed for work. Even still, the fellas were looking sharp.

After waiting for over a half hour to get the check (fortunately we were in no hurry and learned that getting the check takes much longer than we’re used to), we dragged ourselves back into the heat and crossed the milky, glacial-fed Arve River. We were on our way to Carouge, which had a different vibe than the rest of Geneva.

Carouge was originally founded in the 18th century by the King of Sardinia (Victor Amadeus III) after he gave up in his attempts to take over Geneva. He intended to create a prosperous trading town that could rival the more Protestant and austere Geneva by encouraging all faiths and nationalities to settle there, which led to a sizable Catholic and Jewish population. It was absorbed into Geneva after the fall of Napoleon and today is an artsy neighborhood with small artisan shops. We could immediately tell there was a different mood. Carouge’s streets were lined with colorful, low-rise houses, arched windows, and soft pastel tones coating the exterior of the small shops we peered into. No surprise it also goes by the name La Citè Sarde (the Sardinian city).

Leah headed back to the hotel to get ready for a spin class. She was curious what that would be like and told me there was a lot of the instructor yelling “Poussez! Poussez!” to the class. I headed south on the bus towards Salève, a mountain accessible by cable car that would give me a view of the city from above. I’d have a five minute walk across the border into France, but most Geneva residents think of it as their local peak despite that.

From the top, there were hiking trails, sport climbing, or I could have opted to paraglide off the top. I only had a little over an hour, which wasn’t enough time to do any of that in earnest so I just watched and admired the landscape around me until it was time to head back down.

Indian food

We had a dinner of Indian food near the hotel, figuring it was good enough and wouldn’t give us sticker shock. Something we both realized quickly is that Geneva was a very pricey city to dine out in unless you wanted fast food or kebab shops.

Coming from NYC and Seattle, I didn’t expect to do a double-take at the prices. Something to keep in mind is that there isn’t a tipping culture, so you can discount that from the menu price and it helps a little bit.

The next morning, we had a bus to Chamonix at noon. After asking for a late checkout we walked to Othmane Khoris for a leisurely breakfast

The shop looked more like they were selling jewelry than pastries; I could appreciate paying extra for these treats. We grabbed a few boxes of their precious baked goods and walked over to Île Rousseau, a small, lovely island on the Rhône River, which flows out of the lake.

I really enjoyed Geneva and would happily return. The city felt very peaceful and efficient. I only wish I knew where to get an excellent lunch and dinner without overspending, which felt like a research failure on my part. English was readily spoken by many shop owners and locals, but knowing some French made it a lot more enjoyable. I also wish they took the Euro instead of the Swiss Franc, but that was only a minor inconvenience. Looking forward to visiting again!

Din Tai Fung vs Dough Zone

There’s a Din Tai Fung and a Dough Zone in my neighborhood, both within a very short walk of each other. I’ve eaten at both and have wondered to myself, “who makes the better soup dumplings?”

Is it Din Tai Fung, the more expensive, 5-time Michelin star winning restaurant? Or would it be Dough Zone, the fast-growing, more affordable alternative that is considered by some to be the best in Seattle? I decided to do a back-to-back comparison, two dinners in one night.

In addition to the soup dumplings, I was also curious to try a few other items: pork buns, wontons in chili sauce, and the dan dan noodles. On a scale of 0-5, here’s how Leah and I ranked them.

Soup Dumplings

🏆 Din Tai Fung (Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long Bao)

Raja: 4.5 - “Tiny, adorable sized. Clean taste. Impossibly thin dough. Impressive.”

Leah: 4.0 - “Nice spice, more soup than Dough Zone.”

Dough Zone (Berkshire-Duroc Pork Xiao Long Bao)

Raja: 3.75 - “Thin and delicate dough. Melts right in my mouth, great mouth feel for the soup”

Leah: 3.0 - “A little too salty. Don’t like the meat taste. Dough is good. Not much soup.”

Pork buns

Din Tai Fung (Kurobuta Pork Buns, steamed)

Raja: 1.5 - “Heavy dough. The only item I didn’t finish”

Leah: 2.0 - “Chewy dough but I don’t care for the taste of this dough and meat.”

🏆 Dough Zone (Q-BAO Pan Fried Pork Buns)

Raja: 4.0 - “Excellent crispy bottom. Delightfully thin as well. Kinda mushy, more texture over flavor, but I’d get it again.”

Leah: 2.0 - “Top part dough is great, bottom was too crispy. Don’t like the meat.”

Wontons in chili sauce

🏆 Din Tai Fung (Vegetable & Kurobuta Pork Spicy Wontons)

Raja: 4.0 - “Vegetable flavor and texture dominates. More scallions on top of these. More depth in flavor, the sweet and spicy is better balanced here.”

Leah: 4.0 - “Great texture. Not a strong meat taste which is good. Sauce is good.”

Dough Zone (Pork Wontons with Chili Sauce)

Raja: 3.5 - “Supremely thin. Slippery and slides down my mouth. Barely there, small portion, very sweet.”

Leah: 3.5 - “Great texture. Don’t like the meat taste. Sauce is good, sweet.”

Dan Dan noodles

Din Tai Fung (Noodles with Sesame Sauce)

Raja: 2.0 - “Boring. Simple.”

Leah: 2.0 - “Meh sauce. Straight noodle texture.”

🏆 Dough Zone (Dan Dan Noodles)

Raja: 4.5 - “I could eat two orders of it. Perfect spice. Tingly, slippery and chewy. Wavy texture.”

Leah: 4.5 - “Great spice level, could eat it all. Tingly from Sichuan peppercorns, wavy shape.”

Notes

  • Leah doesn’t really like meat, as you can probably tell. Keep that in mind as you read her notes.

  • We went to Din Tai Fung first, put our names down for a 90min wait and ate first at Dough Zone. I would’ve suspected that we’d be too full to enjoy Din Tai Fung, but that’ wasn’t true.

  • It wasn’t fair of me to compare the pan fried Q-bao from Dough Zone to the steamed buns at Din Tai Fung, but I really don’t like steamed buns.

  • I was hoping I’d like the food at Dough Zone more, since it’s almost half the price of Din Tai Fung and it’s far easier to get a table. I’ll still eat at Dough Zone, but now I feel like I’ve got the freedom to explore the items on their menu that aren’t the headliners.